Posts for May 14th 2008

grotesque fashion

Shout Out: Style Bubble Celebrates the Grotesque

German designer Scherer Gonzalez's couture creations border on the grotesque, and Style Bubble is mesmerized.

German designer Scherer Gonzalez's couture creations border on the grotesque, and Style Bubble is mesmerized. The label draws on forgotten Germanic traditions, delving into its rich folkloric past to create otherworldly designs for the modern century. We'll take dark and subversive over cheerfully uninspired any day, and any line that references creepy fairy tales (Hansel and Gretel, anyone?) is okay in our book. The line has tapped into the fact that there's something so intriguing in these absurd, gruesome, and sometimes horrific tales that make them loved by so many. This concept manifests itself in their work, in which tumor-like shapes might emerge from a bum, elaborate seams resemble medical stitches, and trailing swathes of dip-dyed fabric evoke dragons or sea monsters.

There's no denying that Scherer Gonzalez displays considerable sartorial prowess in technique, and regardless of whether we love or hate the final result, we always have respect for the craft. A dizzying amount of techniques are layered into each garment. In fact, it looks like no complicated stitching or pintucking was left unutilised. Save for a few of the fashion world's eccentrics who might actually wear them, these over-the-top designs represent fashion as spectacle, a realm we sometimes like to escape to when we're bored to tears with the confines of ready-to-wear. This morning, we feel thoroughly refreshed.

Rag & Bone

Today's Outfit: Tone It Down, Stay Cool

When warm weather first hits people get really excited.

When warm weather first hits people get really excited. Out come the bright prints, the short shorts, the panama hats. There is something to be said, however, for the woman who takes it in stride. She doesn't get all rambunctious and crazy with her wardrobe, she saves the 'Summer is here' outfits for when summer is actually, you know, here. During these spring months she just rolls out on to the street in something that is decidedly optimistic but not over the top. To this end, we think this outfit is something that sort of fashionista might wear. The Mayle Mariachi Sun Bag has the popular Native American thing going on, it's a summertime purse that is still substantial and sturdy, the Rag & Bone Dalton Cropped Pants and Alexander Wang Drop Needle Rainbow Tank evoke a casual and feminine mood, and the Rachel Comey Pimm Oxfords, a bit of menswear to balance things out. Here's to the girl who knows a little bit about how to mix optimism and reserve.

Christian Dior

Maybe John Galliano Needs A Nap?

Designer John Galliano jogs six miles a day and produces six couture and ready to wear collections per year.

Designer John Galliano jogs six miles a day and produces six couture and ready to wear collections per year. The man must be tired. Yet, these days, his collections for Dior are bursting with color and optimism. The designer, who used to head Givenchy before moving to Dior, is approaching 50 years old and, like any good British designer, dresses like he's got the world's best costume trunk at the foot of his bed. Say what you will, we like this brand of crazy in what came sometimes feel like a staged, monotonous industry. Although many of his garments fall under (ugh) 'love it or hate it' scrutiny there are always moments of true genius. Below, our favorite John Galliano and Christian Dior looks, shipped and ready to be purchased on the mall of adulthood known as ecommerce.

fashion news

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/14

Barney's CEO Howard Socol has parted ways with the beloved retailer.

Howard Socol FaceBarney's CEO Howard Socol has parted ways with the beloved retailer. The industry veteran was rumored to be unhappy with the direction that the Dubai state investment fund Istithmar was taking Barneys after its August acquisition of the company from Jones Apparel Group.


Brooks Brothers is hitting the greens as clothing sponsor of the PGA's Stanford St. Jude Championship
in Memphis next month, including the presentation of a championship jacket - part of its first effort to market the 190-year-old brand in national sports settings.

Liz Claiborne had a first quarter loss.

Buyers beware indeed! Specialty stores' open-to-buys might be holding steady, but at this month's Moda Manhattan and FAME trade shows, buyers reported they are looking more before making decisions.

Short people ain't got no reason to live? Well apparently Big and Tall stores are now making way for short and petite stores for men like Jimmy Au's For Men 5'8". Call it the hipster influence.