Paris Fashion Week Cacharel Spring 2009 Images by Pierre Verdy and Nathalie Lagneau
Posts for September 29th 2008
Most of the fervent obsessing that occurs among consumers, buyers, and press has little to do with the actual clothing that is shown on the catwalk, no it is squarely focused on the much more lucrative, and these days, incredibly dynamic accessories department.
John Galliano's "Tribal Chic" Spring 2009 accessories thankfully did not manifest in masks or prints, but in fertility goddess heel figurines, vibrant earthy red crocodile platforms, and exotic hobos.
>> It's never a good thing when rumors are swirling about your departure right before you debut a collection. But that's just the case for Alessandra Facchinetti, whose Spring 2009 collection for Valentino debuts on Thursday — word is it may be her last.
"I heard they are giving her one more show," a "top editor" told Fashion Week Daily, echoing the sentiments of "several other industry insiders." Since Facchinetti's announcement as Valentino's successor last September, her reception has been only so-so. In fact, one "well-placed Valentino insider" is even implying that she was always meant to be temporary, to "pave the way for Valentino's successor to 'save' the iconic house."
Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto's first collection for Cacharel showed this morning, and, by and large, we were charmed by this collection of Parisian chic meets Japanses cute. Summer dresses, cotton tops, plenty of florals, dungarees and kawaii cute prints showed the kind of youthful spirit that one has long associated with the Cacharel brand, now enterting its 50th year.
In fact, the whole lot felt like a the wardobe of one of those maddenly adorable new Millenials obsessed with posting their latest vintage finds and wardrobe remixes on their blogs. In fact it had a distinct Built by Wendy feel, but no need for a chicken and the egg dialog as we know which came first.
>> INSIDER WIRE —For all the designer upheaval that is continually happening elsewhere, there is one designer that won't be going anywhere anytime soon. John Galliano has just inked a "long-term extension" of his contract at Dior, with only one new change — Dior will be integrating Galliano's eponymous brand, with emphasis on a close partnership. [WWD]
>> Gareth Pugh proved he was worthy of Paris on Saturday, with both showpiece and showroom piece on display during his first major stage entree. Inspired by Hamlet's Ophelia, with Elizabethan collar and a little Storm Trooper mixed in, Pugh is earning comparisons as a new-age Claude Montana or Thierry Mugler. But most importantly, he was well-received into the top tier; As Suzy Menkes put it, "Pugh is zooming toward his own fashion future." Now don't forget to check out those newly-commercialized shoes of his . . .
>> INSIDER WIRE — Is Katie Grand moving away from POP and toward Conde Nast? So say the unfounded rumors, which place POP's founding editor leaving her project in the dust — the editor she supposedly offered it to turned the job down — to start up a new magazine for Conde. [Fashionista]
New York, London, Milan and now Paris are showing a strong, perhaps even overwhelming trend towards sheer and lingerie looks for day wear; but just because spring deliveries aren't till February doesn't mean clever retailers haven't stocked a few looks for sale now.
Who needs Grecian dresses when you can have an entire column, or so the logic of the hair dresses at Christian Dior Spring 2009 must have gone when crafting their towering crimped creations. Classical references aside the silhouette reminds a little too much of Alien.
>> Martin Margiela may rarely speak out, but over the weekend, plenty of people were doing some talking for him. As the designer prepares for his twentieth anniversary Maison Martin Margiela show this evening, rumors are swirling that he is about to exit fashion entirely.
Over the last year, Margiela has told colleagues that he wants to stop designing and is looking for a successor, and two designers have admitted to be in talks with Renzo Rosso, who owns Maison Martin Margiela. One of those designers may be Raf Simons, who earlier this year discussed the possibility of replacing Margiela before ultimately deciding to stay at Jil Sander.
Although some of Margiela's colleagues disagree, Renzo Rosso said last week that "for a long time [Margiela] has a strong team and does not work on the collection, just on special projects," which if true, leaves the potential new designer with an open door.