Posts for January 26th 2009

Nina Ricci

Olivier Theyskens Gone from Nina Ricci?

>> If the couture show rumor mill is to be believed, Olivier Theyskens has officially left Nina Ricci.  Rumors of clashes between the designer and management have been around for over a month — management wanted to go more commercial, while Olivier is known for sticking to expensive craftmanship and creative vision over all else — part of the reason he was let go at Rochas in 2006.Olivier's contract at Nina Ricci is up in October, and just two weeks ago, both brand and designer reiterated their commitment to each other through the term of the contract.  Apparently, Nina Ricci's Spring 2009 collection is failing to sell, however, and recently, Olivier still didn't sound ready to worry about the bottom line: “When the economy changes, it’s not like you want to start eating bad-tasting chocolate.  You have to stay true to what you’re doing, and the house of Nina is about luxury.  I think it’s important to study the market and to feel you are right with it.  But if I felt we had to start doing simple clothes, I’d be doing them.” There's no official confirmation yet about the departure, but this could explain why Ricci owners Puig were meeting with Peter Copping, Marc Jacob's right-hand man at Louis Vuitton, two weeks ago.*image: source

>> If the couture show rumor mill is to be believed, Olivier Theyskens has officially left Nina Ricci.  Rumors of clashes between the designer and management have been around for over a month — management wanted to go more commercial, while Olivier is known for sticking to expensive craftmanship and creative vision over all else — part of the reason he was let go at Rochas in 2006.

Olivier's contract at Nina Ricci is up in October, and just two weeks ago, both brand and designer reiterated their commitment to each other through the term of the contract.  Apparently, Nina Ricci's Spring 2009 collection is failing to sell, however, and recently, Olivier still didn't sound ready to worry about the bottom line:

“When the economy changes, it’s not like you want to start eating bad-tasting chocolate.  You have to stay true to what you’re doing, and the house of Nina is about luxury.  I think it’s important to study the market and to feel you are right with it.  But if I felt we had to start doing simple clothes, I’d be doing them.”

There's no official confirmation yet about the departure, but this could explain why Ricci owners Puig were meeting with Peter Copping, Marc Jacob's right-hand man at Louis Vuitton, two weeks ago.
*image: source

Peter Som

>> INSIDER WIRE —Peter Som already had to drop his Fall 2009 runway show because of an unexpected break in partnership, and now it sounds like he's unsure about having a Fall 2009 collection at all: "We're still trying to figure things out.  I really can't say anymore.

>> INSIDER WIREPeter Som already had to drop his Fall 2009 runway show because of an unexpected break in partnership, and now it sounds like he's unsure about having a Fall 2009 collection at all: "We're still trying to figure things out.  I really can't say anymore. I don't know." [The Cut]

*image: source

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh to Consult for Dior Homme?

>> Leave it to Fashion Week to turn up a juicy rumor or two.  Currently being served up?  The future of Gareth Pugh.  At his premiere menswear show in Paris last night, an unexpected front row guest — LVMH heiress Delphine Arnault — caused a lot of chatter.  Arnault, who is the second largest shareholder in LVMH after her father Bernard, is not known for staying out late, much less for a show which started an hour late at 10 pm on a rainy Sunday night.After the show, which she deemed, "Beautiful, amazing," Delphine went backstage to congratulate Gareth.  The designer has recently been talking about making more wearable pieces, and Arnault's appearance could be more than coincidence.  As the Telegraph reports, "The word is out that someone very big wants to harness his talent, because it could be just the spark to reignite a moribund menswear market."  Grazia has heard from several sources that that "very big" someone is LVMH's Dior Homme, who is about to tap Pugh as a consultant.*image: source

>> Leave it to Fashion Week to turn up a juicy rumor or two.  Currently being served up?  The future of Gareth Pugh.  At his premiere menswear show in Paris last night, an unexpected front row guest — LVMH heiress Delphine Arnault — caused a lot of chatter.  Arnault, who is the second largest shareholder in LVMH after her father Bernard, is not known for staying out late, much less for a show which started an hour late at 10 pm on a rainy Sunday night.

After the show, which she deemed, "Beautiful, amazing," Delphine went backstage to congratulate Gareth.  The designer has recently been talking about making more wearable pieces, and Arnault's appearance could be more than coincidence.  As the Telegraph reports, "The word is out that someone very big wants to harness his talent, because it could be just the spark to reignite a moribund menswear market."  Grazia has heard from several sources that that "very big" someone is LVMH's Dior Homme, who is about to tap Pugh as a consultant.
*image: source

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Will Fall 2009 Be A Season Of 19th Century Costumery?

The Christian Dior Spring 2009 Haute Couture collection showed today and John Galliano's frocks have us thinking that costumery might not end up being exclusive to his catwalks.

The Christian Dior Spring 2009 Haute Couture collection showed today and John Galliano's frocks have us thinking that costumery might not end up being exclusive to his catwalks. In fact, Alexander McQueen showed a collection comprised of hyper-masculine 19th century British archetypes just last week in Milan (and his Pre-Fall was set to a similar landscape too). Is this a British thing? A coincidence? Or could it be a trend toward historical moments economically similar to to our current one? Suzy Menkes noted communist era trends in the menswear shows, and Cathy Horyn commented on industrial/utility vibe. Something tells us we haven't seen the last of these bold references, but only time will tell...

Menswear

Fall 2009 Men's Trend Report: Monochrome Looks

Monochrome in menswear is not a new concept but this season there were some looks that were notably aggressive in their sameness.
Fall 2009 Men's Trend Report: Monochrome Looks

Monochrome in menswear is not a new concept but this season there were some looks that were notably aggressive in their sameness. The number of all-black ensembles that came down the Fall 2009 menswear catwalks frankly made our heads spin but there were also a significant number of more experimental instances--and those quickly became our favorites. Green and red were popular colors as were browns made multi-textural with the inclusion of buttery soft leathers. Check out our favorites below. 

Menswear

Quote Of The Day: Cathy Horyn On Raf Simons Men's Fall 2009

The suits and the coats are slim but the fit seems more accessible and mature, and Simons is now making all the clothes in Italy.
The suits and the coats are slim but the fit seems more accessible and mature, and Simons is now making all the clothes in Italy. It shows in the quality of the materials and construction. Lots of designers explore tailoring but the results are often tortured or uninteresting or superficial. You don’t see what the designer means for us to see, or if there is remotely a valid connection to a young man’s life. Still photos will probably not capture the vital difference in this show, though maybe they will.
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3-D Florals Appear Immediately

We're still catching our breath from the Fall 2009 menswear season and Gareth Pugh's first menswear show, which took place last night, while the Spring 2009 Haute Couture collections have gotten underway.

We're still catching our breath from the Fall 2009 menswear season and Gareth Pugh's first menswear show, which took place last night, while the Spring 2009 Haute Couture collections have gotten underway. Already, just a few shows in, we're seeing the strongest Spring 09 trends reiterated on the couture catwalks. 3-D florals, for instance, showed up at once. Check out our trend report on 3-D florals from the Spring 09 ready to wear catwalks for more.

Pamela Anderson

Fashion In 50 Seconds 01/26/09 Couture Thrives & More

The Spring 09 Vivienne Westwood ad campaign featuring Pamela Anderson has dropped.

The Spring 09 Vivienne Westwood ad campaign featuring Pamela Anderson has dropped.

Kayne West rants and raves on video about his Louis Vuitton sneakers, accidently conducts product placement for Goyard.

Suzy Menkes writes on the Fall 2009 menswear season, and divides the shows into instances of either rampant communism or capitalism

The Spring 2009 Haute Couture shows begin today and, surprisingly, with as much demand from global clients as usual