Posts for February 2nd 2009

Interview

Cost Cutting, Mainstream Pressure Caused Fabien Baron's Interview Exit

>> Now that the news of Fabien Baron and Karl Templer's departures from Interview has had a chance to sink in, a little background on the breakdown.  According to sources close to the magazine, Baron, who also owns agency Baron & Baron, spent too little time in the office and too much money on shoots.  Fabien's co-editorial director, Glenn O'Brien, seems to confirm these reports: "Fabien is a busy man.

>> Now that the news of Fabien Baron and Karl Templer's departures from Interview has had a chance to sink in, a little background on the breakdown.  According to sources close to the magazine, Baron, who also owns agency Baron & Baron, spent too little time in the office and too much money on shoots.  Fabien's co-editorial director, Glenn O'Brien, seems to confirm these reports: "Fabien is a busy man. We haven’t seen him a lot up here.  We have to have our needs met here.”

That, in addition to the fact that "he comes with a big price tag," especially in a time of falling ad pages, did not bode well.  His pricy fashion spread expenditures did not mesh well as Interview's bottom line went lower than expected, and supposedly, Baron began to feel pressure from Brant Publications to cut costs, "take the magazine more mainstream, popular, and Hollywood."  Although Baron hung up on WWD when asked for a comment, he and Templer, who chose to leave when Baron was pushed out, "tried to come to terms and were very disappointed at having to leave."

According to Glenn O'Brien, the parting wasn't so pretty: “In any creative enterprise, there’s always screaming."  But until April, when M/M Paris take over creative direction of the issues . . .
*image: source

Rachel Zoe

>> INSIDER WIRE —It's pretty safe to say that camera crews will be following Rachel Zoe around during Fashion Week — the cameras were rolling Thursday night at the Beverly Hills salon opening she hosted, capturing her huggy reunion with scorned former client Nicole Richie, and are sure to be filming her preparations for the Oscars Feb.

>> INSIDER WIRE —It's pretty safe to say that camera crews will be following Rachel Zoe around during Fashion Week — the cameras were rolling Thursday night at the Beverly Hills salon opening she hosted, capturing her huggy reunion with scorned former client Nicole Richie, and are sure to be filming her preparations for the Oscars Feb. 22 for the second season of The Rachel Zoe Project, as well. [WWD]

*image: source

New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week to Lincoln Center in 2010

>> So long, Bryant Park.  After fifteen years of tents, Bryant Park will no longer be host to New York Fashion Week; starting in 2010, the event is supposed to move to Lincoln Center, according to two designers who typically show in the tents.  Fashion week organizers IMG and the CFDA are expected to make the official announcement Tuesday.It is not clear whether IMG, which pays $1 million to $1.5 million to use the space in Bryant Park each season, will recreate the tents at Lincoln Center, or if nearby building will be used for additional space — a feasibility study done in 2006 suggested placing tents on opposite sides of the New York State Theater, meaning guests would have to walk the equivalent of a city block between them.

>> So long, Bryant Park.  After fifteen years of tents, Bryant Park will no longer be host to New York Fashion Week; starting in 2010, the event is supposed to move to Lincoln Center, according to two designers who typically show in the tents.  Fashion week organizers IMG and the CFDA are expected to make the official announcement Tuesday.

It is not clear whether IMG, which pays $1 million to $1.5 million to use the space in Bryant Park each season, will recreate the tents at Lincoln Center, or if nearby building will be used for additional space — a feasibility study done in 2006 suggested placing tents on opposite sides of the New York State Theater, meaning guests would have to walk the equivalent of a city block between them.

A new location for Fashion Week has been an issue particularly since 2006, when Bryant Park Corporation announced it would no longer allow shows in the park, since they were interfering with the Winter skating rink and late Summer public use of the lawn.  Anna Wintour asked Mayor Bloomberg to intercede, allowing Bryant Park to remain the central location through February 2010, after which a new location would be needed.
*image: source

Coach

>> INSIDER WIRE —It was recently rumored that Coach paid Ali Michael $50,000 to appear in their Spring 2009 campaign, and now another rumor has hit the airwaves about the brand — a rumor that, if true, could bring even more money back into the Coach coffers.

>> INSIDER WIRE —It was recently rumored that Coach paid Ali Michael $50,000 to appear in their Spring 2009 campaign, and now another rumor has hit the airwaves about the brand — a rumor that, if true, could bring even more money back into the Coach coffers. Although neither party would comment, LVMH is said to be eyeing an acquisition of the accessories brand. [WWD, TFS]

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs's Fall 2009 Show Won't Be the Usual Extravaganza

>> Late Friday, Marc Jacobs announced that in addition to canceling his much-anticipated fashion show afterparty, he would also be cutting his show invite list by over half.  Instead of the usual 1,100 seated guests, there will be only 700; likewise, the usual 900 standing assignments are being cut down to 200 and will be largely reserved for employees, making the coveted Marc Jacobs invite more elusive than ever.

>> Late Friday, Marc Jacobs announced that in addition to canceling his much-anticipated fashion show afterparty, he would also be cutting his show invite list by over half.  Instead of the usual 1,100 seated guests, there will be only 700; likewise, the usual 900 standing assignments are being cut down to 200 and will be largely reserved for employees, making the coveted Marc Jacobs invite more elusive than ever.

“This isn’t the time to spend the money to entertain the entire world,” Robert Duffy, Marc's right-hand man and president of Marc Jacobs International, explained of the downsizing. “Everybody thinks it costs the same money to entertain 500 people as opposed to 2,000.  It doesn’t. All those 2,000 people still need to be seated, they still need to check in, this one needs this, that one needs that, and you know what? It’s very costly.”

Marc is showing at his usual venue, the 69th Regimental Armory, Duffy continued, because “it’s a great place to show, and it was booked a year ago. I’m not going to pay a cancellation fee."

But no more Anna Wintour and Bee Shaffer, front row? »

Bliss

Coutorture Community Must Reads 02/02/09

Girl Woman Beauty Brains reviews a Bliss anti-ageing serum called Peeling Groovy.

Girl Woman Beauty Brains reviews a Bliss anti-ageing serum called Peeling Groovy.

Frugal Fashionista finds a Diane Kruger's daytime look for way, way less

Style Bubble responds to the snowy weather and nighttime sky with a color-coordinated outfit

Trend de la Creme likens the Jean Paul Gaultier Couture collection to Wells Cathedral

erin wasson

>> THE MODELIZER —Erin Wasson's debut collection for RVCA was supposed to hit stores yesterday — including online at La Garconne — but so far, it's nowhere to be found.  According to RVCA, there's been a week delay for unspecified reasons.  Erin, meanwhile, is already at work on her Fall 2009 collection, which debuts during New York Fashion Week — fittings, lookbook shoots — and hopes to stay with the brand for the long run: "RVCA feels like we are this f*cking fun little tribe that is making something happen.  And there’s more to come."

>> THE MODELIZERErin Wasson's debut collection for RVCA was supposed to hit stores yesterday — including online at La Garconne — but so far, it's nowhere to be found.  According to RVCA, there's been a week delay for unspecified reasons.  Erin, meanwhile, is already at work on her Fall 2009 collection, which debuts during New York Fashion Week — fittings, lookbook shoots — and hopes to stay with the brand for the long run: "RVCA feels like we are this f*cking fun little tribe that is making something happen.  And there’s more to come." [Coutorture]

Nina Ricci

Natalia Vodianova Bags Nina Ricci Spring 2009, Takes the Label Commercial

>> Olivier Theyskens or not, Nina Ricci's Spring 2009 ad campaign proves management is serious about taking the label more commercial.  In the past, the label's campaigns have been much more forward-thinking — Natasha Poly rocking out in sea spray for Fall 2008, Karlie Kloss and Courtney Smerski going abstract for Spring 2008 — but judging about this first image, Spring 2009 is all about that newly-expanded accessories collection.  How else are we supposed to interpret Lachlan Bailey's studio shots of Natalia Vodianova, N and R charms plainly in view?

>> Olivier Theyskens or not, Nina Ricci's Spring 2009 ad campaign proves management is serious about taking the label more commercial.  In the past, the label's campaigns have been much more forward-thinking — Natasha Poly rocking out in sea spray for Fall 2008, Karlie Kloss and Courtney Smerski going abstract for Spring 2008 — but judging about this first image, Spring 2009 is all about that newly-expanded accessories collection.  How else are we supposed to interpret Lachlan Bailey's studio shots of Natalia Vodianova, N and R charms plainly in view?

ali michael

>> THE MODELIZER —Those new faces looking to break through shouldn't give up just yet — two catwalk veterans, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Ali Michael, are leaving their usual spots at New York Fashion Week vacant this time around.  Abbey Lee, who's appearing on the March 2009 cover of Vogue Australia instead, is sitting Fashion Week out due to knee surgery (no word on whether she'll make it to Europe), and the cause for Ali's absence is unknown — big campaign, maybe?

>> THE MODELIZER —Those new faces looking to break through shouldn't give up just yet — two catwalk veterans, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Ali Michael, are leaving their usual spots at New York Fashion Week vacant this time around.  Abbey Lee, who's appearing on the March 2009 cover of Vogue Australia instead, is sitting Fashion Week out due to knee surgery (no word on whether she'll make it to Europe), and the cause for Ali's absence is unknown — big campaign, maybe? [Fashionista, Fashionista]