Posts for March 5th 2009

Giuseppe Zanotti

Balmain Fall 2009: More of the Same May Not Be Enough

>> Christophe Decarnin has launched the fashion set into Balmania in just a few short seasons with his ripped jeans, strong shoulders, and trashy chic approach, and with Fall 2009, he's not ready to change the formula.  Apparently, the big shoulders were so prevalent in the front row that it caused a squishy situation — and on the runway, two models almost got gridlocked due to their hulking shoulder pads.  Christophe, who stopped by the Prada party last night, admitted he was "a bit nervous," and rightly so — all eyes are on him.

>> Christophe Decarnin has launched the fashion set into Balmania in just a few short seasons with his ripped jeans, strong shoulders, and trashy chic approach, and with Fall 2009, he's not ready to change the formula.  Apparently, the big shoulders were so prevalent in the front row that it caused a squishy situation — and on the runway, two models almost got gridlocked due to their hulking shoulder pads.  Christophe, who stopped by the Prada party last night, admitted he was "a bit nervous," and rightly so — all eyes are on him.

He worked with a simple color palette — black, silver, and white, with a few pops of electric blue — placing the attention on the short, short skirts and the rhinestoned everything. Erin Wasson, Angela Lindvall, and Carmen Kass all made appearances on the runway, and Giuseppe Zanotti did the shoes again, but was it enough?  I'm hearing a lot of disappointment and frustration with Decarnin's decision to stay so formulaic; as Suzy Menkes put it, the "show looked very familiar — not least because new ideas were as short as the models' brief, buttock-grazing hemlines. Since every other house copies his approach, Decarnin will have to find a way to move Balmain forward. But for now he remains, at this sobering-up moment, the last designer to leave the party."
*image: source

Balenciaga

>> INSIDER WIRE —Morley Safer, who has now attended Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana, and the "Extreme Beauty in Vogue" event in Milan with Anna Wintour, appeared this morning at Balenciaga, and while interviewing her before the show, forced guests like Salma Hayek and Catherine Deneuve to wait for their seats for several minutes; apparently his presence has created a stir.  Until now, a date has not been set for the 60 Minutes profile on Wintour to air, but Safer says it will likely be in May.

>> INSIDER WIRE —Morley Safer, who has now attended Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana, and the "Extreme Beauty in Vogue" event in Milan with Anna Wintour, appeared this morning at Balenciaga, and while interviewing her before the show, forced guests like Salma Hayek and Catherine Deneuve to wait for their seats for several minutes; apparently his presence has created a stir.  Until now, a date has not been set for the 60 Minutes profile on Wintour to air, but Safer says it will likely be in May. [On the Runway]

*image: source

Balenciaga

A Softer Side of Balenciaga for Fall 2009

>> Fall 2009 has turned out to be the season of new for Nicolas Ghesquiere and Balenciaga: new show location, new softness, new openness to models of color.  Instead of showing at the brand's headquarters on the Left Bank as usual, Ghesquiere took the show to Hotel Crillon, with its gold and cream atmosphere and the models walking through French doors.  The official blame for the move goes to neighbors around the HQ, who apparently didn't like the loud soundtrack, but some wondered if it wasn't prompted by Balmain's move to the Ritz this season — a little venue rivalry?
A Softer Side of Balenciaga for Fall 2009

>> Fall 2009 has turned out to be the season of new for Nicolas Ghesquiere and Balenciaga: new show location, new softness, new openness to models of color.  Instead of showing at the brand's headquarters on the Left Bank as usual, Ghesquiere took the show to Hotel Crillon, with its gold and cream atmosphere and the models walking through French doors.  The official blame for the move goes to neighbors around the HQ, who apparently didn't like the loud soundtrack, but some wondered if it wasn't prompted by Balmain's move to the Ritz this season — a little venue rivalry?

Nonetheless, the typically whitewashed Balenciaga runway felt a little influx of models of color this season; Liya Kebede opened, and Chanel Iman walked, her first time for the label — last time a model of color walked, as far as I can tell, was Fall 2006 — Liya Kebede.  Newcomers Johanna Kneppers and twin Gwen Loos made their first runway appearances.  As for the clothes, Ghesquiere took away the recent robo-chic, instead experimenting with draping and satin — two techniques he admitted he'd never really worked with before.  The result is garnering '80s Yves Saint Laurent and Dynasty comparisons, and perhaps a little uncertainty, but there's definitely a future for the high-slit, splotchy-printed dresses — Francois-Henri Pinault thought so, he was there with new wife Salma Hayek in the front row.
*image: source, source

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Quote Of The Day: Jefferson Hack On Gareth Pugh Fall 2009

He showed his presentation as a video, I was skeptical but blown away, literally.
He showed his presentation as a video, I was skeptical but blown away, literally. Some people grumbled that there were no clothes to feel the texture of. I'll leave that to the fashion purists. This was really the first time I've seen a designer use video to really great effect. To show the movement and sculptural possibilities of his clothing.
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Fall 2009 Trend Report: Draped Trouser, Strong Shoulder

We've been going around in circles with draped trousers and strong shoulders for a while now, and this season is no exception.

We've been going around in circles with draped trousers and strong shoulders for a while now, and this season is no exception. This morning, Balenciaga revealed an utterly polished version of the look which made us sigh "only in Paris" over our morning coffee. Earlier this season, in New York, Temperley London gave us an exaggerated version--fit for a London It-Girl--and Marc Jacobs gave us a truly American rendering with denim and colored metallic. No matter which style you identify with, it seems the options are still plentiful.