Paris 03/07/09. Photos by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images.
Posts for March 7th 2009
>> THE MODELIZER — One Givenchy exclusive for tomorrow's show has been revealed: Dree Hemingway, who was already handpicked to appear in the Fall 2009 Halston video, and is definitely experiencing a sudden, meteoric rise (that Hemingway heritage can't be hurting). [WhoWhatWear]
UPDATE: Another exclusive for Givenchy: one Ranya Mordanova. [The Imagist]
>> So just how does the richest man in France, and one of the most powerful in fashion, do it? A profile in the March 2009 issue of WSJ. gives us a clue about the dealings of Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, who Anna Wintour says "has a very strong understanding of what [his] designers do. If he’s concerned about something, he’ll speak up, but he’ll never tell them, ‘Do this’ or ‘Do that.”
But he will give them a strong hint. When John Galliano was presenting the Pre-Fall 2009 collection to buyers in Paris, Arnault came to oversee. Twenty-three models are escorted in for Arnault's perusal, and Galliano "reads nervously in English from a prepared speech to explain the source of his inspiration: Dior seen through the erotic lens of photographer Helmut Newton":
Arnault, seated on a white sofa, focuses on two ingredients: Is the piece “Dior” enough and is it priced right? “Ah, this is true Dior,” he states definitively of a black waist-cinched suit with pleated pockets. “It’s Dior safari,” he says of a beige coat with fox-fur collar. A skirt suit in Prince of Wales check appears: “The Dior woman will like this and will want to come back season after season,” he says.
"Ça, c’est beau — how much is it?” Arnault asks as a tall blond model stands before him in a $1,500 red double-face wool dress. “Will that sell?” he asks of an embroidered $15,000 cream-colored gown. (The answer was yes, in Monaco, Hong Kong and Moscow.) “Why not use those black masks for the ad campaign?” “If you tell me so, sir,” Galliano answers.
>> INSIDER WIRE —It was only a matter of time — taking a break from her Balmain, Margiela, and Givenchy-filled wardrobe, Carine Roitfeld chose to go with a coat and skirt from the Fall 2009 collection of burgeoning cult label Altuzarra yesterday for Dior and Lanvin. Big things are in the future for designer Joseph Altuzarra, and it doesn't hurt that he's in with the Roitfeld clan; Julia Restoin-Roitfeld wore a dress from his first collection last season right after it debuted.