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Posts for June 18th 2009

Diane von Furstenberg Settles After Copying; Nicolas Ghesquiere Accused of Copying Cruise 2010 Jacket
Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane von Furstenberg Settles After Copying; Nicolas Ghesquiere Accused of Copying Cruise 2010 Jacket

>> American designers, under the lead of CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg, are currently pushing for copyright inclusion under the Design Piracy Prohibition Act, but a few recent occurrences may hurt their case.
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>> American designers, under the lead of CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg, are currently pushing for copyright inclusion under the Design Piracy Prohibition Act, but a few recent occurrences may hurt their case.

Just last week, Diane von Furstenberg settled out of court for an undisclosed sum with the Canadian designers of Mercy, who accused DVF of copying their jacket (photo comparison here), which in Diane's version appeared on the March 2009 cover of Elle.  When notified, Diane apologized almost immediately, as has since ceased from using the copied design: “While this is an isolated incident for DVF, it is unfortunate that way too many others intentionally build businesses by stealing the work of other designers."

It's doubtful that Diane was talking about Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga, but some questions are now being raised about a leather jacket from his recent Cruise 2010 collection, especially because he has admitted to copying a garment in the past that appeared in his Spring 2002 Balenciaga collection.  The current item of contention is strikingly similar to the "Parrot" jacket by San Francisco-based East West Musical Instruments — picture comparison above — which operated in the '60s through the '80s and sold to Iggy Pop, Janis Joplin, and the like.  It's no secret that designers mine vintage pieces for inspiration, and Nicolas is not an American designer, but two examples in such quick succession can't be helping the Design Piracy Prohibition Act fight.

Interview

>> INSIDER WIRE —Even more shifts are happening at Interview in the wake of Fabien Baron's comeback: editor-in-chief (and V alum) Christopher Bollen, left, is to be editor-at-large, and executive editor Stephen Mooallem, who has been at the magazine for six years, is to be installed as editor.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Even more shifts are happening at Interview in the wake of Fabien Baron's comeback: editor-in-chief (and V alum) Christopher Bollen, left, is to be editor-at-large, and executive editor Stephen Mooallem, who has been at the magazine for six years, is to be installed as editor. Meanwhile, Karl Templer's return as creative director is still said to be imminent. [WWD]

Marc Jacobs Doesn't Design Louis Vuitton Cruise, But Encourages Leaning Out of Buildings in His Fall 2009 Ads
Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs Doesn't Design Louis Vuitton Cruise, But Encourages Leaning Out of Buildings in His Fall 2009 Ads

>> The Louis Vuitton Cruise 2010 we saw last week was the work of new Vuitton design director Julie de Libran, who has taken Peter Copping's place now that he's heading up Nina Ricci; apparently for some time now, Marc Jacobs has entrusted Resort designing to one of his lieutenants.
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>> The Louis Vuitton Cruise 2010 we saw last week was the work of new Vuitton design director Julie de Libran, who has taken Peter Copping's place now that he's heading up Nina Ricci; apparently for some time now, Marc Jacobs has entrusted Resort designing to one of his lieutenants.

Meanwhile, the Fall 2009 ads for his namesake label are starting to appear; one with Natasa Vojnovic leaning out of a building precariously, and another a collage of portraits of Natasa, Ajuma Nasenyana, and Kamila Filipcikova.  Irina Kulikova and Olga Sherer are also supposed to appear in the Juergen Teller-lensed set.

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patrick demarchelier

>> INSIDER WIRE —Patrick Demarchelier won't cop to having a favorite model, but his son Victor Demarchelier can't agree: he and girlfriend Caroline Trentini are planning a road trip.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Patrick Demarchelier won't cop to having a favorite model, but his son Victor Demarchelier can't agree: he and girlfriend Caroline Trentini are planning a road trip. "We’re just going to leave New York and drive till we hit the coast."  But being the son of a fashion photographer doesn't mean free portraits: "The only one he took of us was in Vogue! He never picks up the camera for us." [Modelinia]

Scads of Models Come Out for 2009 Whitney Art Party
invitation only

Scads of Models Come Out for 2009 Whitney Art Party

>> One big party wasn't enough for the fashion crowd this week: Max and Lubov Azria gathered designers, editors, and models alike for their third consecutive year of sponsorship, simultaneously celebrating twenty years of BCBG, at the Whitney Art Party.  "Have you ever seen so much BCBG in one room?"
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>> One big party wasn't enough for the fashion crowd this week: Max and Lubov Azria gathered designers, editors, and models alike for their third consecutive year of sponsorship, simultaneously celebrating twenty years of BCBG, at the Whitney Art Party.  "Have you ever seen so much BCBG in one room?" Max mused. "Even I haven't!"

The usual party circuit models — Hilary Rhoda, Dree Hemingway, Hana Soukupova, Sessilee Lopez — who loved her dress — were out in full force, but Jules Mordovets, Diana Farkhullina, Sasha Pivovarova, Arlenis Sosa, Charlotte di Calypso, Constance Jablonski, and Julia Stegner — who was in the market for some wall decorations — were also out to play. Even with the CFDA Awards on Monday, everyone seemed recovered: "It hasn't been that bad," said Jason Wu. "I used last night to recover from the CFDAs." Plus, attendees got to take home an artist-designed print umbrella, useful with all the rain New York has been getting.

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Yigal Azrouel

>> INSIDER WIRE —Rumors that circulated a couple of months ago about the nature of Yigal Azrouel and Katie Lee Joel's relationship are not going away now that Katie Lee and her husband Billy Joel have announced their spilt.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Rumors that circulated a couple of months ago about the nature of Yigal Azrouel and Katie Lee Joel's relationship are not going away now that Katie Lee and her husband Billy Joel have announced their spilt. The latest on Yigal and Katie Lee, who often wears Azrouel's designs, is that the designer called Joel his girlfriend, but Billy Joel's spokesman says the split is "absolutely unrelated to Yigal." [NYDN]

Proenza Schouler Debuts Guest Edit of A Magazine, Short Film with Kalup Linzy, and Cruise 2010 Collection All in a Week
Chloë Sevigny

Proenza Schouler Debuts Guest Edit of A Magazine, Short Film with Kalup Linzy, and Cruise 2010 Collection All in a Week

>> This has been a week of firsts for Proenza Schouler.  They took home their first CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year award Monday, after which Jack McCollough was snapped licking Thakoon Panichgul; Lazaro Hernandez later quipped, "Yeah, we started the week off with a hangover, bad idea, and kind of throws off the whole thing!"  With A Magazine #9, out this week with Chloe Sevigny on the cover, they become the first American designer guest editors — Lazaro even photographed the Swarovski campaign inside.And today, they present their first collection abroad in Florence — complete with performance artist Kalup Linzy's short film starring Chloe Sevigny and Liya Kebede (see here), because they felt they "needed to up the ante."  The Cruise 2010 collection includes bags with leather treated to look like herringbone canvas and was inspired by their recent trip to Tahiti: "When we finish a show we go away, and that trip usually winds up being the spark for the next season.
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>> This has been a week of firsts for Proenza Schouler.  They took home their first CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year award Monday, after which Jack McCollough was snapped licking Thakoon Panichgul; Lazaro Hernandez later quipped, "Yeah, we started the week off with a hangover, bad idea, and kind of throws off the whole thing!"  With A Magazine #9, out this week with Chloe Sevigny on the cover, they become the first American designer guest editors — Lazaro even photographed the Swarovski campaign inside.

And today, they present their first collection abroad in Florence — complete with performance artist Kalup Linzy's short film starring Chloe Sevigny and Liya Kebede (see here), because they felt they "needed to up the ante."  The Cruise 2010 collection includes bags with leather treated to look like herringbone canvas and was inspired by their recent trip to Tahiti: "When we finish a show we go away, and that trip usually winds up being the spark for the next season. Not directly — I think we try to avoid the places where the inspiration would be too on-the-surface, in fact."  They say they're staying to work in Italy, and then coming back to get ready for Spring 2010, so maybe some Italian influence will shine through next time around?

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Richard Nicoll Resort 2010
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Richard Nicoll Resort 2010

British designer Richard Nicoll is known for his sporty, clean style.
by coutorture
British designer Richard Nicoll is known for his sporty, clean style. For Resort 2010 the designer showed his signature silk color blocked dresses along side a fabulous line up of cropped trousers and textured skirts. As for the military metals, worn as brooches and necklaces, they were created by Erikson Beamon. Richard Nicoll has been producing hit after hit since he graduated from the Central Saint Martins MA course in 2002--we hope to see this young designer offered a creative director position in the coming seasons.
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