>> Alexander Wang Has Designs on First Manhattan Store —Alexander Wang is not only livestreaming his Fall 2010 show online, he's now also projecting the show — which is said to be very tailored and "Wall Street" — live on a massive LED screen outside the American Eagle flagship at 46th Street and Broadway in Manhattan. “This is a New York brand, and so much of our inspiration is from here, I wanted to bring it to the people of New York and make it a part of the landscape.” Also becoming part of the New York landscape soon: a Wang store — the designer is aiming for a Fall launch, but hasn't yet decided on a location. [WWD, @MeenalMistry]
Posts for February 11th 2010
>> For the second season in a row, Richard Chai chose to send his secondary line, Richard Chai Love, down the runway rather than his main line. "It just made sense," Chai explained to Style.com. "I want to nurture the [Love] business. The women's collection is already established." Another thing established: the gray-washed boots from Timberland Chai paired with his looks this season had quite a few fans even before they hit the runway — during fittings, the models were all asking to take them home.
Chai's close friend Phillip Lim sat front row chatting with Poppy Delevigne, Harley Viera-Newton, and Derek Blasberg, while on the runway, Meghan Collison made a return with a lighter head of hair; Liu Wen, meanwhile, sported a few chunky strips of reddish blonde on the back of her head. Long knit skirts, turned down waistlines, and cozy scrunched fingerless gloves added a taste of grunge to the collection, promptly counteracted by the glamour of shimmery tops and bits of fur.
>> Remembering Alexander McQueen —Alexander McQueen, with his elaborate sets, creative choreography, and ability to shock and awe, knew how to put on a show. A few of our favorite McQueen spectacles, on video, below.
>> The news of Alexander McQueen's death hung like a dark cloud over the Fashion Week events today. The McQueen store down the street from Milk Studios in Manhattan, where a number of shows were held today, had its windows covered with white paper; a placard left on the ground outside. Passersby left flowers and notes in a makeshift memorial out front. Barneys, too, changed out its windows in tribute to McQueen — the store sold over 500 McQueen scarves today.
This morning at the BCBG show, just as the news broke, Anna Wintour left before the show's finale. The Ports 1961 show held a moment of silence in honor of McQueen, Cushnie et Ochs included a tribute note in their show's program, and at the LnA after party this evening, Patti Smith dedicated her performance to the designer.
Kate Moss, who was scheduled to hold a launch party for her Longchamp collection in London, postponed the event to mourn her friend. More changes to the calendar may be made: The Cut is reporting that editors might leave New York Fashion Week early for London in light of McQueen's death.
On Twitter, there was an outpouring of grief from the industry, collected below. T's Stefano Tonchi told The Cut he partially blames the rapidly increasing speed of the fashion system for McQueen's suicide:
We all know that this is a very critical moment in fashion, and that basically he is the first victim of what is a conflict between creativity and business. Today to be a fashion designer, you have to be a superman or superwoman. You have to have nerves of steel. You have to be so strong. And if you are a little bit weak, if you have psychological problems or weakness, you end up like him.” When McQueen began in fashion, designers worked on two or three collections a year, said Tonchi. “Now you have to be a business manager, a marketer. It’s, what? Eight, ten, fifteen collections a year. Men’s, women’s, couture, diffusion. Then they want accessories. Then they want watches. Then they want jewelry. It’s a machine, and I think that killed him.
If Cushnie et Ochs' spring collection felt a little one note, the designing duo's fall 2010 showing this afternoon in New York proved Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs can turn out a dynamic show with some serious lust-after pieces.
To be sure, there were draped micro dresses and tiny bondage skirts; however, this season both were more about contour and dimension than they were about showing skin. New biomorphic cut outs and cantilever-like scuptural curves kept even the designers' body conscious silhouettes looking fresh.
Beyond that covetable bag of tricks, Cushnie et Ochs had us at the tailored coats and chunky knits. A distressed chalk-colored jacket paired with chocolate leather trousers was especially noteworthy in the coat category, as were a smattering of wool toppers, in black and ivory, with their padded leather lapels and Mongolian lamb or silver fox fur trim. The designers went all out 3-D with knit hooded dresses and sweaters, wrapping thick wooly braids around the body and over the shoulder.
Looks were paired with Alejandro Ingelmo platform booties (black or chalk) in leather and pony, elongating legs and making those skinny stretch trousers look completely wearable. If it isn't obvious already, this season we've officially fallen for Cushnie et Ochs.
From his first look out—a printed powder blue shirt buttoned up to the neck and paired with an ankle length ribbed tube skirt and taupe combat boots—Richard Chai's Love collection declared the return of grunge.
Against a white runway in the tents at Bryant Park we watched look after look of Nineties favorites, though a bit more polished than they were the first time around. There were perfectly slouched floor-sweeping pants, funnel dresses in ribbed wool, asymmetric tunics, flouncy georgette dresses worn over long sleeve tee shirts and tube skirts, and cropped pants over knit leggings—all paired with thick fingerless gloves and the aforementioned, need-to-own-them-now boots by Timberland.
The layered, long, and lean look was consistent throughout the Richard Chai Love collection with an army green cargo jacket, shawl collar furs, and a plaid boyfriend trench acting as perfectly proportioned toppers to his narrow silhouettes. At Love's contemporary price points, sometimes major fashion movements look even better the second time around.