Posts for February 13th 2010

New York Fashion Week

Ohne Titel Fall 2010: Nothing But Net

>> Ohne Titel has the industry rapt: one look at the front row — scattered with the likes of Suzy Menkes, Hamish Bowles, Cecilia Dean, Cathy Horyn, Stefano Tonchi, and Carine Roitfeld in her first appearance of the week — is a testament to that.  But this season, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill were ready to win over more than just the editorial crowd; they focused on keeping prices down, producing wearable pieces, and growing their clientele.

>> Ohne Titel has the industry rapt: one look at the front row — scattered with the likes of Suzy Menkes, Hamish Bowles, Cecilia Dean, Cathy Horyn, Stefano Tonchi, and Carine Roitfeld in her first appearance of the week — is a testament to that.  But this season, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill were ready to win over more than just the editorial crowd; they focused on keeping prices down, producing wearable pieces, and growing their clientele.

Starting with "nineteenth century shapes and details" and adding their own utilitarian twist, out came streamlined knits, net skirts, and velvet jackets in moss green, gray, and black. Stylist Alastair McKimm helped the designers pair everything with patchwork tights and strapped wedge boots, the latter part of their ongoing collaboration with Cesare Paciotti.

If Flora and Alexa are looking for more fans, they definitely appear to have won over their models: Maryna Linchuk made her first Fashion Week appearance at the show, dancing as she entered the backstage area after walking; Constance Jablonski, too, gave a happy little shimmy after her runway loop.

New York Fashion Week

>> Tasha Tilberg, Longtime Girlfriend Married Recently —While Marc Jacobs and Lorenzo Martone continue to keep everyone guessing, another fashion figure went ahead and took the marital plunge.  While backstage before walking last night's Fashion for Relief show, Canadian model Tasha Tilberg revealed that she and her longtime girlfriend recently got married in Canada because same-sex unions aren't legal in California, where they live.

>> Tasha Tilberg, Longtime Girlfriend Married Recently —While Marc Jacobs and Lorenzo Martone continue to keep everyone guessing, another fashion figure went ahead and took the marital plunge.  While backstage before walking last night's Fashion for Relief show, Canadian model Tasha Tilberg revealed that she and her longtime girlfriend recently got married in Canada because same-sex unions aren't legal in California, where they live. “Now we’re working on kids,” Tilberg added. [NY Times]

jason wu

Cathy Horyn on Jason Wu Fall 2010: "World-Class Designers Are Not Made Overnight"

>> Pre-show, security tried to keep Johnny-come-latelies like Dasha Zhukova, Derek Blasberg, and a few Vogue editors out of Jason Wu, and post-show, after his model of choice Karlie Kloss closed, Wu sprinted the pink runway from end to end ("It's very long and everybody's really busy, so I thought I'd sprint," he told The Cut), but in-between was where all the action really happened.

>> Pre-show, security tried to keep Johnny-come-latelies like Dasha Zhukova, Derek Blasberg, and a few Vogue editors out of Jason Wu, and post-show, after his model of choice Karlie Kloss closed, Wu sprinted the pink runway from end to end ("It's very long and everybody's really busy, so I thought I'd sprint," he told The Cut), but in-between was where all the action really happened.

There's no denying that all eyes are on Wu, who has unofficially become known as the younger generation's Oscar de la Renta. But it seems his Fall 2010 collection — in which he reprised his paint splatters from Spring 2008, this time in real gold leaf, and was inspired by photos of and by Irving Penn — left his audience wanting more.

It all started with the piano runway music: "elevator music," as one editor called it.  Another editor said it had her nodding off.  WWD referred some of the evening offerings, typically Wu's strong point, as "just awkward," and Style.com noted that his attempts to expand beyond the dresses that first captured the world's attention "were occasionally uneven."  But it was Cathy Horyn who really let it rip, writing: "World-class designers are not made overnight . . . Mr. Wu lacks the skill and maturity as a designer to pull off that kind of homage, to even come close to Mr. Penn’s artistry, and the wonder is why Mr. Wu didn’t know better and find another plan."  Then again, as a young designer, Wu is still learning the ropes.

feature

Sculptural Draping in an Earthy Palette at Costello Tagliapietra Fall 2010

Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra took their signature liquid jersey to a new level with their fall 2010 collection presented at Milk Studios last night.

Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra took their signature liquid jersey to a new level with their fall 2010 collection presented at Milk Studios last night.

In a color palette of dusty rose, sand, bark, and sunset orange, the collection featured seemingly simple silhouettes made special with pleats and drapes which gently wrapped around the body and tucked into thin leather belts by Metalskin. The belts cinched in the waits of most models, making for a polished look that often anchored voluminous tops and bottoms.

A pastel pebble print, used in two beautiful georgette dresses, was a highlight of the show as was a rose-brown long sleeve dress with a drop waist and diagonal draping. The fact that Costello Tagliapietra's lineup would be flattering on most bodies wasn't lost on the audience, as we could hear personal orders being discussed before the models even took the runway for the show's finale.

Marc Jacobs

>> Marc Jacobs Rumored to Be Street Casting for Fall 2010 Show —The Imagist reports on "very good authority" that there will be "some element of New York street casting" to the Fall 2010 Marc Jacobs show: "Some very cool girls on the scene (think Purple denizens) are being considered .

>> Marc Jacobs Rumored to Be Street Casting for Fall 2010 Show —The Imagist reports on "very good authority" that there will be "some element of New York street casting" to the Fall 2010 Marc Jacobs show: "Some very cool girls on the scene (think Purple denizens) are being considered . . . Will it be all non-models? A mix of mannequins and real people? Or will mercurial Marc shift his mind at the last minute?" [TI]