New York 02/13/10 WireImage
Posts for February 13th 2010
Doo-Ri Chung's fall 2010 collection shown at Chelsea's Eyebeam Gallery yesterday started off with two strong navy and black looks—first a sharp jacket with a draped hem paired with slim trousers, followed by a military style shirtdress that fell lose around the hips with the same black netting.
Chung's military-inspired pieces, especially the pants which had buckles hanging off the hips and diagonal snaps along the thigh, were among her best looks. The black and blue theme carrying over through one almost electric blue-dyed fox fur coat with black leather trim and a series of cropped jackets, one which changed from blue to black depending on the light and one whose marble print was reminiscent of Doo.Ri spring 2010.
Skipping over the moments of geranium red and crystal-encrusted everything (leggings, jersey dresses, even the models lips were painted pale blue and made glittery), the show ended on a high note with two long and lean evening looks, most memorable in a gray suede sleeveless top and floor-length narrow skirt.
>> Just after the blaringly strong lights went up at Preen, signalling the start of the show, a yell came from the photographer's pit — "Move out of the way!" — as someone scurried back to their seat. Luckily for said photographer, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi like to start their show out with a long stretch of music, building anticipation.
There would be no Preen without a multitude of cutout dresses — this time cut deep enough to reveal the side of a breast or a stretch of nude underwear — but the collection as a whole seemed to be built around the underwired bandeau bra. Turtlenecks (which have made appearances in a lot of shows so far) were cropped short to reveal the bandeau, floral dresses hung lose so that the bandeau could peek through, and some dresses had the bandeau built in over the top of draped fabric. There was also a more tailored element — likely thanks to a collaboration with Savile Row tailor Gieves and Hawkes. And Nicholas Kirkwood contributed the shoes.
But clothes aside, Preen is also watched for its cast — at a dinner post-show, the designers admitted they like showing in New York because they have access to top caliber models not available in London. Hanne Gaby Odiele seemed to be having fun on their runway: after her first turn, she squinted from the bright lights and cracked a small smile, and in the finale, she was smiling and clearly trying to hold back a laugh.
>> Alexander McQueen Samples Recalled, Speculation on Company's Future Rises —This morning, Alexander McQueen's director of communications sent out an urgent message requesting all samples be sent back "asap" because securing "all items and garments from current and past collections" is their "immediate priority." Gucci Group remains mum on the future of McQueen the company — save CEO Robert Polet's emailed statement on the subject, which read: "What I can say is that there is a team at Alexander McQueen that has enormous talent and energy and passion that Lee was extremely proud of and I am too." A number of articles are popping up, citing luxury consultants and analysts who find the designer and his brand too inextricably linked for the company to survive without him. Noted one: "I think PPR will use this as a pretext to walk away from the McQueen brand, which has never really made any money anyway. The label just hasn't been around for long enough to be able to survive in the long term now that he is no longer there. A brand needs to have a history to live on in these circumstances and Alexander McQueen's brand doesn't have enough of a history. It's comparatively recent and its roots are not deep enough." [Heard on the Runway, Bloomberg, Times UK, AP]
>> From look one, a cool knit kilt on Kasia Struss, it was clear that David Neville and Marcus Wainwright are on to something this season. For their first women's-only runway show (men's was shown separately this time around), Neville and Wainwright moved to a new venue — a brick-walled SoHo loft spacious enough for two extra-long runway corridors; in between, a row of oversized spherical lanterns emitting a soft glow. As for the show, it was by many accounts their best one yet.
Cozy knit ponchos, camouflage anoraks, and pleated skirts were pulled together in a stellar styling job by former Marie Amelie Sauve assistant Vanessa Reid (who was also responsible for the stunning layering in Missoni's Fall 2009 collection). Miniature black belts buckled over pant cuffs and wrists, pouches hung from waist belts or belts around the thigh, and more belting went around the shoulders and across the back, harnessing a select few looks. Accessories were out in full force: bolo ties over button-up shirts, knee-high socks, mittens, and scarves.
Rag & Bone is known for their top-notch casting — label favorites like Jessica Stam, Lily Donaldson, and Coco Rocha were nowhere to be found, but Lily Aldridge walked, explaining the Kings of Leon appearance front row (she dates the lead singer).