New York 02/15/10 Getty
Posts for February 15th 2010
>> At 7:56 pm EST this evening, a booming male voice came over the loudspeakers at the Armory in New York, asking everyone to take their seats, the Marc Jacobs show was about to start. Meanwhile, the rest of the audience, via live.marcjacobs.com, had already taken their seats at home and were watching. The lights went down in the space, covered floor, wall, and ceiling with corrogated cardboard. Then, a spotlight appeared on Marc as he and Robert Duffy walked across the room to tear down a floor to ceiling segment of brown paper, revealing all the models, standing in a giant wooden crate, behind.
Tatiana Cotliar opened the pared-back, neutral-dominated collection to the "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" soundtrack, which featured a mix of three different renditions of the song. The 56-look collection was modeled by a cast who exited the box one at a time and included Marc by Marc Jacobs stylists Camille Bidault-Waddington and Suzanne Deeken, plus two girls who were pulled off the street; Jamie Bochert closed.
There was no finale procession, just Marc taking a bow in a Bottega Veneta suit; it really seems like Marc is ready for his show to be about the clothes again, something Robert Duffy suggested recently: no celebrities front row (just Crystal Renn — Andre Leon Talley was even left standing after coming late), a one song soundtrack, a brown paper set, very few recognizable models. Even the after-party is staff-only this year. "It's not about fashion, it's about style. That's why we used 'real' girls," he said post-show.
And people seem to be responding. "Beautiful show, wistful. Fab coats with glossy, shaggy fur. A-line skirts," Cathy Horyn remarked. Paper's Kim Hastreiter wrote: "Marc Jacobs show was the most beautiful of his career IMO."
>> Anna Dello Russo Has Landed —Anna Dello Russo just landed in New York and was spotted at the Halston and Marc Jacobs presentations today; she recently chatted about the sacrifices she makes in the name of fashion: "Collecting clothes is complicated because the clothes need a space and the right temperature. You really destroy clothes if you leave it there, no? It’s dusty, it’s hot — it ruins the clothes. It’s so freezing in my house! The clothes need to be cold . . . no more than 15 degrees Celsius." [NYMag]
>> After the New York Times article two weeks ago extensively covering Zac Posen's recent financial struggles, needless to say, eyes were peeled this morning bright and early at the Altman building for Posen's Fall 2010 plan of attack. Glenda Bailey, which the aforementioned article noted was not in attendance at Posen's show last season after they had a confrontation last April, was front row this time around, as were Posen's advertising photog Ellen von Unwerth, Patricia Field, Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington, Joe Zee, and Robbie Myers.
As the lights dimmed and runway photographers scrambled for their places, Israeli "hip-hop violinist" Miri Ben-Ari stepped from backstage to the left side of the runway, where she played her electric violin throughout the show, backed by a thumping bass. Despite the fact that Posen is still going with a pared-down runway in general, the performance added the energy of his elaborate productions of yore. The models, too — including Alek Wek, Hana Soukupova, Anne Vyalitsyna, Posen's muse Anna Cleveland, and Coco Rocha, who closed — were clearly told to smile and work the runway; Sessilee Lopez, hands on her waist, swung her hips with satisfaction. Posen's boyfriend, Christopher Niquet, styled the show.
The clothes, however, were telltale that Posen is making an effort to resituate himself: there were none of his signature gowns whatsoever. In their place, short skirts with flounce, '40-style trousers, and plenty of fur. "I'm playing with clean fabrications and upping the luxury level," he said backstage after taking his bow with Rocha and Kinee Diouf.
>> Cathy Horyn On Why She Gives Riccardo Tisci a Hard Time, Dating Liz Claiborne's Widower Art Ortenberg — Cathy Horyn has been known to rail on Riccardo Tisci's work at Givenchy fairly consistently; in a recent interview with Style.com, she explains why: "What bothers me about Riccardo is he’s playing in the big leagues, but there’s a missing sophistication somehow. It’s all so cool, and it’s all so indie magazine, but it doesn’t lead you. It leads you at that level but not at an extra-high level. And I think it could. I hope it does. I’m hard on him because I think he could be better." Another fun Cathy-related tidbit, courtesy of yesterday's Daily: she has been dating Liz Claiborne's widower, millionaire Art Ortenberg, since last Feb. 4; they currently live together. [Style File, FWD (hard copy)]
>> It wouldn't be Fashion Week if everyone wasn't flying by the seat of their pants. Imogen Morris-Clarke, who walked Thakoon yesterday, Tweeted post-show: "Hanne [Gaby Odiele] was in [her] own clothes as the show began!!! manic."
The pre-show panic wasn't felt in the show's audience, however, where Andre Leon Talley was wearing a sweater with big fuzzy dollar sign on the back paired with a furry scarf and Grace Coddington took her time chatting with fellow front rowers before taking her seat. As the lights went down, the music took on the pervasive pounding of a heartbeat, and the models emerged from a cavernous opening, framed by two oversized shapes which curled over their heads and softly glowed. They stopped in their tracks to pose in front of the photographers before carrying on down the runway.
Panichgul says the collection, with its fur-lined hoods, handkerchief hems, shearling boots, and pom pom fringe, was inspired by the image of a half-shaven sheep. "It captured everything that I wanted in my collection,” he explained. “It was raw, primitive and soft all at once.” The perfect embodiment of the inspiration: a tiger-print dress, the bottom half all tiger-striped fur.