>> Olivier Theyskens has been living in New York for a few months now, but how is he settling into his new home? “I live in the West Village," he tells Vogue.com, "because I love that I am able to walk to the studio. I adore the neighborhood, it’s not very agitated, and it has a little bit of the feel of a European village with old history.” But that doesn't mean he's left Paris entirely behind: “When I’m not working, I spend time with friends in the city or even better, go to the beach or even better still, take another two days and quickly go to Paris.” [Vogue.com]
Posts for January 17th 2011
Fashion and Luxury Brands Now Creating Their Own Editorial Content Rather Than Depending on Magazines for Coverage
>> Tory Burch has a full-on editorial section to her website, complete with Tory-approved travel guides; eBay Fashion just hired former Lucky creative director Andrea Linett; and Net-a-Porter's Mr. Porter website is being headed up by Jeremy Langmead, the former editor of British Esquire.
It's safe to say — fashion and luxury brands that used to have to impress editors at the likes of Vogue to garner editorial coverage don't have to anymore. They're bringing the editors in-house, cutting out the magazine middlemen and going straight to consumers with their own editorial content. “Brands, especially those centered around lifestyle interests or luxury, are increasingly becoming media companies,” Steve Rubel of Edelman Digital, a digital communications and consulting firm, noted.
Part of the transition can be chalked up to the fact that brands can now afford to pay for their own editorial credibility — with digital publishing, creating and distributing content is much cheaper. Susan Lyne, former CEO at Martha Stewart Living and currently head of Gilt Groupe, has encouraged more editorial elements on the Gilt website, allowing consumers to read and investigate — something that used to be the province of magazines — as they shop. “We are not in the publishing business; we are in the editing business,” she said. “But if I were in the media business, I would be concerned because it used to be that in order to reach a certain kind of consumer, brands used to have to buy ads in relevant magazines or with a certain kind of television programming. That’s clearly not the case anymore.”
>> The New York Post reports that in the Kate Middleton cover race, Harper's Bazaar has been pegged as the frontrunner, as Bazaar's fashion features editor Sara Buys is married to Camilla Parker Bowles's son, Tom. Bazaar stylist Mary Alice Stephenson says, "There will probably be a war with Vogue, but Glenda [Bailey, Harper's Bazaar editor] is the woman to get Kate." Bailey's response when questioned, meanwhile, was more diplomatic: "I'm very fortunate to be editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar and, as a result, have lots of people who want to be on the cover. We're very, very fortunate to have some of the great Kates appear on our cover — Kate Winslet, Cate Blanchett. Who knows the future?" [NY Post]
Lady Gaga Said to Premiere New Song at Her Stylist Nicola Formichetti's Debut Thierry Mugler Menswear Show
>> Two more preview images of Nicola Formichetti's debut Thierry Mugler collection have been released, depicting his skeleton-tattooed muse, Rico Genest. In no surprise, Lady Gaga, who Formichetti styles, is involved with the show Wednesday. Formichetti says she's "musical director" for the show, and will create an exclusive soundtrack for the occasion; word is that she'll remix a never-heard track from her forthcoming album, Born This Way, which comes out May 23. The last and only other time Gaga debuted a song during a fashion show was with "Bad Romance," which had its world premiere during Alexander McQueen's Spring 2010 womenswear show, crashing the show's livestream. [WWD]
Gisele Bundchen for Isabel Marant, A Nude Freja Beha Erichsen for Chanel, Plus More of the Latest Spring 2011 Ad Campaign Images
>> Gisele Bundchen has turned up in another Spring 2011 campaign to pair with her only-girl Balenciaga: Isabel Marant. A first peek at that, plus new images of Bundchen for Balenciaga, a Chanel ad of Stella Tennant spraying a nude Freja Beha Erichsen with a hose — and more — in the gallery (NSFW).
>> For Pre-Fall 2011, Maison Martin Margiela showed menswear-inspired cuts dabbed with a touch of decadence. In addition to classic streamlined suits and straight-leg trousers, there were blazers made out of two different fabrics, like rabbit fur and flannel, creating a directional textural look. Neutral hues like camel, gray, and black ruled the story board, but Margiela also highlighted shades of burgundy, red, and even hot pink.
Victoria Beckham Designs and Wear-Tests Her Own Bags, Her Accessories Collaborator Katie Hillier Says
>> Accessories designer Katie Hillier may work with Victoria Beckham on her new handbag collection, but she stresses: "She designs the bags. At the start of the season, Victoria gives me a huge folder full of all the stuff she's seen that she likes, and we work through it together. Often I'll come back with an idea and she'll say no — she's particularly picky about fabrics, which is unusual. Lots of people I've worked with are like, 'It looks good — great!,' but Victoria will lick her finger and wipe it on the cloth and be like 'Uh-oh, I can see what's going to happen to that in the rain!' She wear-tests all the bags when they're in development, taking them everywhere she goes. All the bags are designed to fit into her life and that's why they just work." [Telegraph UK]
>> Emerald green is coming back with a vengeance and last night's Golden Globes spectacular proved that point. Elisabeth Moss wore a custom pleated strapless gown by Donna Karan; Angelina Jolie shimmered in a long-sleeved dress by Atelier Versace; and Mila Kunis struck a pose in an elegant option by Vera Wang. But don't limit yourself to dresses — try out the jewel tone in separates for a more casual feel . . . or even on a bag.
>> In less than two weeks, Carine Roitfeld is headed out the door at Vogue Paris, with Emmanuelle Alt set to take over on Feb. 1. Roitfeld's last issue will be for March, and although there's been no intel on who might feature on that cover — her last for the magazine — her second to last cover choice, for February 2011, is Lara Stone, captured by Mario Sorrenti (left).
So what, beyond these last few days in her current role, does Roitfeld have on her plate? There's still her biography, Carine Roitfeld: Album of a Woman of Fashion, that Olivier Zahm has been working on for over a year, which is supposed to come out in the Fall. Apparently she recently read the Keith Richards biography, Life, and has since been wanting to try shepherd's pie, Harper's Bazaar UK editor Lucy Yeomans tweets: "Just seen [British chef] Mark Hix sending shepherds pie to Carine Roitfeld in Paris.She has wanted to try one since reading SPscene in Keith Richards biog!" And now there's speculation that Roitfeld might look into launching her own brand. As The Imagist points out: "I mean if [Anna Dello Russo] can have her own fragrance, why shouldn't the masses be able to buy a little bit of le style Roitfeld?"
LOVE's Upcoming Spring 2011 Androgyny Issue Features Kate Moss and Transgender Model Lea T., Lips Locked (UPDATED)
>> Late last week, Katie Grand previewed LOVE's upcoming Spring 2011 Androgyny Issue, out Feb. 7. The issue's muse, she said, was her "new best friend," transgender model Lea T., and it was apparently love at first sight: "I was by the pool at the Copacabana Palace Hotel when I saw her. At first I didn't notice her gender, just that she was wearing Givenchy couture and looked amazing!" Lea T., Kate Moss, and Justin Bieber are the new issue's cover stars; Bieber was shot by Terry Richardson in a tight 90 minute slot between gigs in Philadelphia, and Lea T. and Kate Moss are shown locked in a kiss, left. [Telegraph UK, SHOWstudio, @THELOVEMAGAZINE]