>> Giorgio Armani, who says that he has always admired “the captivating culture and the refined sense of aesthetic” of Japan, and was “profoundly moved by the tragic events unleashed by the earthquake last March,” deemed his Fall 2011 Prive collection a homage to the country. Printed floral silk patterns graced skirts, bow belts emulated the obi, stiff headdresses — into some of which Philip Treacy snuck chopsticks — suggested the sculpted hair of a geisha, and the primarily black collection stuck to a pin-thin silhouette.
Posts for July 2011
>> Giambattista Valli finally got the opportunity to show his own couture collection yesterday (when designing at Emanuel Ungaro from 2001 through 2004, he focused on ready-to-wear while Ungaro himself held the couture reins) as a guest member of the Paris couture calendar.
“The most beautiful thing about the couture is the devotion,” Valli noted after the show, which encompassed a whopping 45 looks focusing on the Valli DNA — bicolored dresses, volume and endless amounts of chiffon, pops of vivid color, and animal prints. The opening look was inspired by the blouse de cabine — the white tunic shirt of the atelier worker — which Valli intended to symbolize his couture as a “work in progress,” and his partner, jewelry designer Luigi Scialanga, was also involved, contributing metal belts that Valli wanted to "suggest the arms of the man around the waist of the girl — savage, wild, strong, against the fragility of the clothes.”
>> At the Dior Fall 2011 couture show yesterday, studio director Bill Gaytten and first assistant Susanna Venegas took the finale bow. Just last week it was rumored that Gaytten may be in the running for the top job at Dior, and Gaytten, when asked backstage yesterday if he wanted to be Dior creative director, replied, “Yeah, I do,” adding: “I’m not a fool.”
However, despite the rumors and Gaytten's wishes, WWD determined that after his architecture-inspired Dior couture show yesterday (which Style.com called "a misjudged effort to impress an alien thumbprint on an aesthetic that, for better or worse, is one of the fashion industry's most clearly defined"): "If a germ of truth ever existed there [to the rumors of Gaytten taking over], this show likely squashed it."
Cathy Horyn, too, agreed that Gaytten should not be Dior's next creative director (a feeling that seems to have been held across the board): "I like Mr. Gaytten. He’s a sweetheart, but he is not a designer. The collection presented today, with modern architectural shapes as the reference (at least that explains the dumb cubes and balls embedded in the models’ hair), was a hodgepodge."
>> This upcoming Spring, Jason Wu and plastic shoe brand Melissa are teaming up to release two exclusive styles. Though both shoes are based on pre-existing Melissa bestsellers — the Ultragirl ballet flat and the Lady Dragon peep-toe slingback — they're injected with a strong dose of signature Wu: a Miss Wu owl logo bow tops the ballet flats, while a sunburst design culled directly from Wu's Fall 2011 collection adorns the pumps. “It was really interesting for me to explore design possibilities with plastic,” said Wu of the collaboration. “I wanted to take advantage of the materials I was given, make it all completely functional and waterproof and yet still remain extremely sophisticated.” Both styles will be available in black, burgundy, nude, and transparent gray, and also feature lining printed with pink and black lace. Wu is the first American designer to collaborate with Melissa; Vivienne Westwood, Gareth Pugh, and Jean Paul Gaultier have all previously partnered with the Brazillian shoe brand.
>> A few pictures are starting to roll in of Kate Moss heading to her wedding in a silver Rolls Royce, her father Peter and 8-year-old daughter Lila Grace Hack (who's set to serve as her chief bridesmaid and is said to be wearing Stella McCartney) by her side. Her dress, confirmed to be designed by John Galliano, is lightly sequined, and her shoes are confirmed to be Manolo Blahniks with blue lining — as in "something blue" — rather than Christian Louboutin as previously thought.
The wedding dress was inspired by Zelda Fitzgerald, whose engagement ring Moss is wearing. Galliano did the final fitting earlier this week in Europe, while in care, WWD reports. “Kate is his biggest muse and he was never, ever going to let his friend down,” one source said. “He did Kate’s 21st birthday dress, her 30th birthday dress, and Galliano’s show was the first she ever walked for. So this wedding day ties up a lot of things beautifully.”
Moss is expected to make a number of outfit changes this evening, Vogue UK reports, three of which will be designed by her close friend Stella McCartney. For her first dance, Moss will wear an oyster silk chiffon dress with embroidered bodice and a cut-out back, then she'll change into a mini body-con dress with a plunging back and beading all over. Finally, for her going-away suit, she'll wear a single-breasted, three-piece white wool suit.
Naomi Campbell (wearing Givenchy couture by Riccardo Tisci), Stella McCartney (in a white, tailored look of her own design), Daphne Guinness (in a light blue dress of her own design), Philip Treacy, Carine Roitfeld (in vintage Galliano), Emmanuelle Alt (in Balmain), and Anna Wintour (in a Mondrian-inspired Prada dress) are all understood to have attended the ceremony.
>> Kate Moss's wedding ceremony is about to get under way — at 3:30 pm GMT at St Margaret's Parish Church near her Cotswalds home. Pictures of the wedding may be few and far between — Vogue has the exclusive for their September 2011 issue, with Mario Testino on camera duty — and the events are under security lockdown, with both neighboring villages of Southrop and Little Faringdon closed down. In fact, wedding guests and locals had to be issued permits to allow them to pass through roadblocks. However, PopSugar has a look at Kate on her way to the ceremony this afternoon in her veil.
Last night, Moss and Hince gave paparazzi a rare treat, posing for photographs outside The Swan pub in Southrop before their rehearsal dinner. Moss, in a vintage dress and blue Tabitha Simmons boots, looked visibly ecstatic, and apparently told the Daily Mail: "I was so nervous when I was practising signing the register. I've been so stressed out. My hands were shaking like an old woman's!" As for Hince, the couple's friend, Primal Scream bassist Mani said: "He's all right, he's marrying a supermodel. What's there to be nervous about?"
Moss is apparently set to wear a custom John Galliano gown to the ceremony, with Christian Louboutin shoes. Jamie Hince and his "best man," Kills bandmate Alison Mosshart, are confirmed to wear Yves Saint Laurent, while maid of honor Trish Simonon will sport Erdem. The newly-wedded couple and their 300 guests (including Naomi Campbell, Vivienne Westwood, Stefano Pilati, Stella McCartney, Sir Philip Green, and Edward Enninful) will then retreat to the model's home for the first of a three-day, reportedly £500,000 ($800,000) celebration.
>> The mysterious paternity of Linda Evangelista's 4-year-old son, Augustin James, may finally be solved. And it seems the rumors that Francois-Henri Pinault is the father are right, despite denials from both Evangelista's agent back in 2007 and Pinault's rep in 2009.
Evangelista appeared at the Manhattan magistrate's court yesterday, the New York Post reports, in hopes of hashing out a child support agreement with Pinault. This marks her third or fourth trip to Family Court, with no agreement yet reached, making a Fall support trial likely, according to a court source.
Pinault didn't show yesterday, but that was due to a misunderstanding, his lawyer, David Aronson, said: "We had understood that it was to be a brief, telephone conference, to bring Magistrate Troy up to date on what the status was." Evangelista's lawyer, William Beslow, meanwhile, had no comment; neither did Evangelista.