Posts for October 2nd 2012

fashion week Oct 02, 2012

Alexander McQueen Spring 2013

Designers have found inspiration in stranger places than beehives, the contents of which gave Sarah Burton a direction for the Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 collection.

by Justin Fenner

Designers have found inspiration in stranger places than beehives, the contents of which gave Sarah Burton a direction for the Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 collection.

There were references to bees all over these clothes, from the beekeeper's hats the models wore down the runway to the honeycomb shaped lace Burton applied to those hats and a number of pieces in the collection. A number of garments — dresses, shirts, and jackets included — demonstrated a clever use of the wasp waist. When could it be more appropriate to revive this McQueen trope than in a collection inspired by bees?

Yes, the inspiration here came across literally, but the clothing certainly didn't suffer for it. Even the black and gold color palette that dominated the show came off as charming rather than thematic, especially in several suits made from a honeycomb jacquard. The final gowns here were dramatic as always, many of them accented by hoopskirts that were either layered on top or barely hidden by sheer fabrics or cloth flowers.

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Hedi Slimane Responds to Cathy Horyn's Saint Laurent Post

Oscar De La Renta Oct 02, 2012

Hedi Slimane Responds to Cathy Horyn's Saint Laurent Critique

Hedi Slimane has added his name to the short list of designers to respond publicly to Cathy Horyn's criticism of their work this season.

by Justin Fenner

Hedi Slimane has added his name to the short list of designers to respond publicly to Cathy Horyn's criticism of their work this season.

Slimane, who showed his Spring 2013 collection for Saint Laurent in Paris on Monday night, tweeted a message titled "My Own Times." The text read in part:

"Miss Horyn is a schoolyard bully and also a little bit of a stand-up comedian. Insiders argue she is an average writer, and a bit provincial, but I disagree, she did some great things. Her biggest achievement so far is a book about Bill Blass, that I haven't read. It might be terrific, and I'll be happy to recommend it, if it helps the sales. . . As far as I'm concerned, she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent, but might get two for one at Dior. She should rejoice. I don't mind critics, but they have to come from a fashion critic, not a publicist in disguise. I am quite mesmerized she did get away with it for so many years."

Horyn was not invited to the Saint Laurent show on Sunday and pointed that out in a post about the collection. She explained her exclusion thus:

"Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons's template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line."

Oscar de la Renta took out a full-page ad in WWD to respond to Horyn calling him a "hot dog" in her critique of his Spring 2013 show. In it, the designer asked Horyn, "If you have the right to call me a hot dog why do I not have the right to call you a stale 3-day old hamburger?" Horyn later told us that she was trying to compliment de la Renta "as someone showing off his tricks, like a surfer."

A look at the full text of Slimane's tweet, below.

fashion week Oct 02, 2012

Valentino Spring 2013

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli's Spring 2013 collection for Valentino was, as Valentino collections always are, a celebration of women of all kinds.

by Justin Fenner

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli's Spring 2013 collection for Valentino was, as Valentino collections always are, a celebration of women of all kinds. Inspired by a recent exhibit of photographer Roman Arturo Ghergo — who photographed wealthy, famous women and women on the street with the same elevating eye, this collection aspired to make women look glamorous no matter what the occasion.

This meant A-line day dresses that were ladylike, but subscribed to the season's penchant of revealing sexy bits of skin by being stitched together with slightly open seams. Otherwise simple shift dresses were decorated with intricately details bib panels. There were the requisite sheer lace dresses here, too, notably in a wispy black material, but rendered with an elegance that is uniquely Valentino. A few beautiful, but simple, evening garments featured a narrow slit in the bodice. It's perhaps the most modest glimpse of skin we've seen all week.

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fashion week Oct 02, 2012

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Spring 2013

Take futuristic touches, sporty cuts, and resort wear, fuse them all together, and you have Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's Spring 2013 collection.

by Melody Nazarian

Take futuristic touches, sporty cuts, and resort wear, fuse them all together, and you have Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's Spring 2013 collection. Bright colors and loud prints, including breezy palm trees, all screamed warm-weather getaway. Details like sharp ruffled shoulders, clear plastic jackets, and slit sunglasses all pointed to the future, while sporty jackets and vests with hoods and ribbed collars added variety to the funky mix. Lending a touch of edge were a few looks with black leather details. Green, yellow, and blue were the main punchy colors in this collection, with black, white, and beige mellowing things out.

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fashion week Oct 02, 2012

Agnès B Spring 2013

Designer Agnes Trouble was all about ease and comfort for Spring 2013, but she never lost sight of that quintessential Parisian chic.

by Melody Nazarian

Designer Agnes Trouble was all about ease and comfort for Spring 2013, but she never lost sight of that quintessential Parisian chic. The show started with models wearing flat oxfords with classic trench coats, berets, printed dresses, and leather dresses. Then all of a sudden the collection took a totally funky and mod turn with a printed jumpsuit. But alas, it was back to classics like a pleated skirt and suits in colors like black, white, and red. There were also sporty touches like relaxed trousers and hoodies, but the show ended with ethereal sheer dresses paired with white sneakers.

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fashion week Oct 02, 2012

Chanel Spring 2013

Under the wind turbine-adorned atrium of the great hall in the Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld offered up a Spring 2013 collection that felt pared-down, and modern — yet entirely rooted in the ethos of classic Chanel.

by Christina Perez

Under the wind turbine-adorned atrium of the great hall in the Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld offered up a Spring 2013 collection that felt pared-down, and modern — yet entirely rooted in the ethos of classic Chanel. Silhouettes were structured and full with an emphasis on rounded shoulders and wide sleeves on top and mid-thigh straight skirts, wide shorts, and super-slim trousers below. The house's signature tweeds were plenty present, but they came simply decorated with only a bit of contrast piping and nary a braided chain in sight. Adding to Lagerfeld's "neo Coco" theme were the innovative fabrics: appliqued floral "prints" had a three-dimensional effect and tech-knits came imprinted with a raised waffle grid. Later, that same grid motif appeared on pastel-hued silks and stiff organzas.

Accessories were eye-popping and fresh too. Choker necklaces and bracelets made from gobs of varying-sized pearls felt luxe yet cool, while the oversized hula hoop bags nearly stole the show.

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