Posts for October 2012

Ferragamo

Exclusive: Salvatore Ferragamo's Fall 2012 Collection Stars in New Film

To showcase Massimiliano Giornetti's beautiful Russian-inspired Fall 2012 collection, Salvatore Ferragamo has created a short film featuring some of Russia's biggest style stars.

To showcase Massimiliano Giornetti's beautiful Russian-inspired Fall 2012 collection, Salvatore Ferragamo has created a short film featuring some of Russia's biggest style stars.

Miroslava Duma, Elena Perminova, and Anya Ziourova star in the one-minute clip, which shows them getting dressed in the collection for a night in New York City, with the Russian band Tesla Boy's song "Spirit of the Night" playing in the background. The trio then heads out to see the band's first performance in the United States, where they run into industry types like Anna Dello Russo and Hilary Rhoda.

All of the clothing captured in the film is available for purchase. A look at the stylish evening below.

Street Style

Paris Fashion Week Street Style — Spring 2013 Edition

The first few days of Paris Fashion Week may have been filled with wind and rain, but that didn't stop the fashion set from bringing major style to fashion month's final stop.
The Best Street Style From Paris Fashion Week | Spring 2013

The first few days of Paris Fashion Week may have been filled with wind and rain, but that didn't stop the fashion set from bringing major style to fashion month's final stop. And really, with the likes of Natalie Joos, Elisa Nalin, and Emmanuelle Alt storming the streets (or should we say rues?) it's no surprise that the looks are just chic as can be. See it all — with more to come as the week goes on — right here.

fashion week

Miu Miu Spring 2013

Miuccia Prada has never been shy about referencing the '50s or '60s (we submit Prada's Fall 2011 and Spring 2012 collections as proof of this), but her Spring 2013 collection for Miu Miu took the two decades' ladylike style and subverted it with unexpected materials and accents.
Miu Miu Spring 2013 | Runway

Miuccia Prada has never been shy about referencing the '50s or '60s (we submit Prada's Fall 2011 and Spring 2012 collections as proof of this), but her Spring 2013 collection for Miu Miu took the two decades' ladylike style and subverted it with unexpected materials and accents.

The first look that came down the runway? A dark denim coat and high-waisted skirt paired with a white midriff top and green leather gloves. The styling here was '60s couture, but the attitude was uniquely modern. The same can be said of a few fabrics that look like they'd been tie-dyed here or there; shiny, almost plastic materials on elegant coats and skirts; and brightly colored furs with unregulated striped sections of black.

The overwhelming feeling was one of contrasts, and Prada herself got to the bottom of that. "It's about elegance, not elegance. Couture, not couture. Tailoring, not tailoring," she told WWD. Was it Spring, but not Spring, too? That would explain all the lovely furs.

fashion week

Louis Vuitton Spring 2013

Checkmate. For Louis Vuitton's Spring 2013 collection, Marc Jacobs took the house's iconic damier check, blew it up, and applied it to, well, everything.
Louis Vuitton Spring 2013 | Runway

Checkmate. For Louis Vuitton's Spring 2013 collection, Marc Jacobs took the house's iconic damier check, blew it up, and applied it to, well, everything. The models appeared on one of four escalators whose stairs were decorated with white and yellow stripes and walked onto a floor decorated with the check pattern.

The clothing, done in shades of yellow, green, brown, black, and white, were similarly checked. A large version of the yellow and white damier appeared on the first long-skirted suit that came down the runway, then got smaller in the black-and-white bralette top and maxi skirt that came after it. As if to underscore the duality of the print (or at least the colors in it), Jacobs sent his models down the runway in pairs, with each pair wearing coordinating looks.

All the models in this show wore bows in their hair, and nearly all of them carried bags in the damier check. The styling and feeling was slightly '60s, but the rounded shoulders on jackets and shirts felt modern — and so did the inclusion of lots of different skirt lengths.

There was a dialogue between this collection and the Spring line for his namesake brand, which was heavy on stripes. This show, however, was cleaned up and a little more sophisticated — and all the bright yellow gave you an unavoidable sense of happiness.

fashion week

Alexander McQueen Spring 2013

Designers have found inspiration in stranger places than beehives, the contents of which gave Sarah Burton a direction for the Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 collection.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 | Runway

Designers have found inspiration in stranger places than beehives, the contents of which gave Sarah Burton a direction for the Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 collection.

There were references to bees all over these clothes, from the beekeeper's hats the models wore down the runway to the honeycomb shaped lace Burton applied to those hats and a number of pieces in the collection. A number of garments — dresses, shirts, and jackets included — demonstrated a clever use of the wasp waist. When could it be more appropriate to revive this McQueen trope than in a collection inspired by bees?

Yes, the inspiration here came across literally, but the clothing certainly didn't suffer for it. Even the black and gold color palette that dominated the show came off as charming rather than thematic, especially in several suits made from a honeycomb jacquard. The final gowns here were dramatic as always, many of them accented by hoopskirts that were either layered on top or barely hidden by sheer fabrics or cloth flowers.

Oscar De La Renta

Hedi Slimane Responds to Cathy Horyn's Saint Laurent Critique

Hedi Slimane has added his name to the short list of designers to respond publicly to Cathy Horyn's criticism of their work this season.



Hedi Slimane has added his name to the short list of designers to respond publicly to Cathy Horyn's criticism of their work this season.

Slimane, who showed his Spring 2013 collection for Saint Laurent in Paris on Monday night, tweeted a message titled "My Own Times." The text read in part:

"Miss Horyn is a schoolyard bully and also a little bit of a stand-up comedian. Insiders argue she is an average writer, and a bit provincial, but I disagree, she did some great things. Her biggest achievement so far is a book about Bill Blass, that I haven't read. It might be terrific, and I'll be happy to recommend it, if it helps the sales. . . As far as I'm concerned, she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent, but might get two for one at Dior. She should rejoice. I don't mind critics, but they have to come from a fashion critic, not a publicist in disguise. I am quite mesmerized she did get away with it for so many years."

Horyn was not invited to the Saint Laurent show on Sunday and pointed that out in a post about the collection. She explained her exclusion thus:

"Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons's template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line."

Oscar de la Renta took out a full-page ad in WWD to respond to Horyn calling him a "hot dog" in her critique of his Spring 2013 show. In it, the designer asked Horyn, "If you have the right to call me a hot dog why do I not have the right to call you a stale 3-day old hamburger?" Horyn later told us that she was trying to compliment de la Renta "as someone showing off his tricks, like a surfer."

A look at the full text of Slimane's tweet, below.

fashion week

Valentino Spring 2013

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli's Spring 2013 collection for Valentino was, as Valentino collections always are, a celebration of women of all kinds.
Valentino Spring 2013 | Runway

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli's Spring 2013 collection for Valentino was, as Valentino collections always are, a celebration of women of all kinds. Inspired by a recent exhibit of photographer Roman Arturo Ghergo — who photographed wealthy, famous women and women on the street with the same elevating eye, this collection aspired to make women look glamorous no matter what the occasion.

This meant A-line day dresses that were ladylike, but subscribed to the season's penchant of revealing sexy bits of skin by being stitched together with slightly open seams. Otherwise simple shift dresses were decorated with intricately details bib panels. There were the requisite sheer lace dresses here, too, notably in a wispy black material, but rendered with an elegance that is uniquely Valentino. A few beautiful, but simple, evening garments featured a narrow slit in the bodice. It's perhaps the most modest glimpse of skin we've seen all week.

fashion week

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Spring 2013

Take futuristic touches, sporty cuts, and resort wear, fuse them all together, and you have Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's Spring 2013 collection.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Spring 2013 | Runway

Take futuristic touches, sporty cuts, and resort wear, fuse them all together, and you have Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's Spring 2013 collection. Bright colors and loud prints, including breezy palm trees, all screamed warm-weather getaway. Details like sharp ruffled shoulders, clear plastic jackets, and slit sunglasses all pointed to the future, while sporty jackets and vests with hoods and ribbed collars added variety to the funky mix. Lending a touch of edge were a few looks with black leather details. Green, yellow, and blue were the main punchy colors in this collection, with black, white, and beige mellowing things out.

fashion week

Agnès B Spring 2013

Designer Agnes Trouble was all about ease and comfort for Spring 2013, but she never lost sight of that quintessential Parisian chic.
Agnès B Spring 2013 | Runway

Designer Agnes Trouble was all about ease and comfort for Spring 2013, but she never lost sight of that quintessential Parisian chic. The show started with models wearing flat oxfords with classic trench coats, berets, printed dresses, and leather dresses. Then all of a sudden the collection took a totally funky and mod turn with a printed jumpsuit. But alas, it was back to classics like a pleated skirt and suits in colors like black, white, and red. There were also sporty touches like relaxed trousers and hoodies, but the show ended with ethereal sheer dresses paired with white sneakers.

fashion week

Chanel Spring 2013

Under the wind turbine-adorned atrium of the great hall in the Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld offered up a Spring 2013 collection that felt pared-down, and modern — yet entirely rooted in the ethos of classic Chanel.
Chanel Spring 2013 | Runway

Under the wind turbine-adorned atrium of the great hall in the Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld offered up a Spring 2013 collection that felt pared-down, and modern — yet entirely rooted in the ethos of classic Chanel. Silhouettes were structured and full with an emphasis on rounded shoulders and wide sleeves on top and mid-thigh straight skirts, wide shorts, and super-slim trousers below. The house's signature tweeds were plenty present, but they came simply decorated with only a bit of contrast piping and nary a braided chain in sight. Adding to Lagerfeld's "neo Coco" theme were the innovative fabrics: appliqued floral "prints" had a three-dimensional effect and tech-knits came imprinted with a raised waffle grid. Later, that same grid motif appeared on pastel-hued silks and stiff organzas.

Accessories were eye-popping and fresh too. Choker necklaces and bracelets made from gobs of varying-sized pearls felt luxe yet cool, while the oversized hula hoop bags nearly stole the show.