>> Angela Missoni mixed '70s-era earthiness with sleek urbanity for Fall 2012. Missoni's textural knits came in a palette of burnt orange, rusty red, and harvest yellow for a bit of autumnal rusticity, while slim silhouettes — pencil skirts, body-con dresses — and leather and fur accessories kept everything looking evaluated and superchic. "Like a heroine in a concrete jungle," the show notes explained.
Posts for February 2012
>> Going for Baroque. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's ode to Sicily for Fall 2012 was elaborate, romantic — and simply lovely to behold. On a runway dressed with giant chandeliers and an ornate gold frame, the designers sent out capes, dresses, and nipped-in coats — all in a palette of black, white, and gold — and each more decadently adorned than the last. There were black velvet capes decorated with gold filigree-style embroidery, frothy blouses trimmed with ruffles of sheer chiffon, and bell-shaped dresses printed with lush floral and cherub motifs.
>> Consuelo Castiglioni's vision for Fall 2012 looks something like this: polished, bright, and just a tad '60s — with a dash of Orientalism thrown in for good measure. Solid hues — tomato red, camel, grey, and baby blue — provide a high-contrast colorblock palette, while python, plaid, gold jacquard, and patent leather offer texture. Silhouettes are boxy, layered, and slightly round-shouldered on top, with knee-length skirts and creased ankle trousers lending a sense of straight-cut stability on bottom. "I was interested in architecture and controlled lines," Castiglioni explained.
Clean lines aside, this wouldn't be Marni without a fair amount of quirk. This season, it came in the form of oversize utility pockets, fold-over fur collars, opaque white tights, and gold-tipped platform Mary Janes.
>> In a departure from Spring's swirling prints and bohemian mood, Peter Dundas went dark and slick for Fall 2012 Emilio Pucci. "Exotic black. Sober but slashed," the show notes explained, and sure enough there were crocodile skins and velvet devourés (exotic), close-cut sheaths and tuxedo jackets (sober), and plenty of sheer cutouts and thigh-revealing slits (slashed). It was an offering that felt fresh, assured, and — ultimately — sexy.
>> It's not every day that the finale of a fashion show is met with a tearful ovation or an audience that rushes the runway in unrestrained appreciation. As Raf Simons gave his final bow at Jil Sander today, he was met with both.
It was "moving and spontaneous, and certainly not like anything I’ve experienced in 25 years of covering the industry," Cathy Horyn reported of the show's final moments. Federico Marchetti echoed the sentiment saying, "Raf was in tears at Jil Sander, the purest moment in fashion since I started in this industry."
Of course, it's not every day that a designer presents a collection so lovely, elegant, or quite so poignant. It is also not every day that a designer who's done such a remarkable job leaves a successful post to go off into the great unknown.
Regardless, it's true that wherever Simons goes he'll be just fine. Today's ice cream-hued swan song — which some say evoked a modern take on '50s Dior couture — was a triumph, not only in its breathtaking beauty, but in its optimism and promise as well.
>> The show notes for Emporio Armani's Fall 2012 collection promised "fun little touches of pure fantasy," and the collection did not disappoint. Sure, there was a lot going on here — looks were heaped high and deep with chiffon ruffles, fringe, and shimmering polka dots — but the pile-it-on mentality only added to the whimsy. Also adding to the whimsy: the knicker-like Bermuda shorts that — cuffed jauntily at the knee — permeated every single look.
>> Donatella Versace went tough and glam for Fall 2012, offering up a collection filled with Byzantine crosses, chain mail, burnout velvet, studded leather — and plenty of "dark seduction". Silhouettes were short and body-con, fabrics decadent and fiercely embellished, and — adding to the rebellious mood — models wore supersevere mini bangs, à la Rooney Mara.
>> For Fall 2012, Tomas Maier sent out one of his most refined offerings yet. Silhouettes were superbly tailored and expertly appointed, with day dresses, coats, and double-breasted skirt suits cut just-so in black, navy, or burgundy wool. Evening wear, too, was just as disciplined — and just as chic. Gowns came in floor-length velvet or fluted chiffon with shoulder ruffles, raised embroidery, or a delicate sprinkle of sequins.
>> The backstage antics just don't stop. From salutes to smirks to piggyback posing, the first few days in Milan have certainly not been lacking in fun. Click through to get in on all the behind-the-scenes action — starring Fendi's modern warrior princesses, Max Mara's Metropolis-inspired minimalists, Gucci's gothic heroines, and more — right here, in the slideshow.
>> Oversized paisleys and op-art mosaics were the motifs du jour at Fall 2012 Etro. In a burnished palette of taupe, burgundy, and gray, they decorated every one of the collection's lean-lined looks. They appeared tattoo-like on sheer blouses, kaleidoscopic on peplumed sheaths, and texturally geometric on wide-legged pants. Whip-smart blazers and straight-cut coats in velvet and jacquard lent a jaunty, dandy mood.