Posts for March 6th 2012

Kanye West

Kanye West Fall 2012

>> On a runway hazy with dry-ice smoke, Kanye West presented the highly anticipated second collection for his eponymous line.
Kanye West Runway 2012 Fall

>> On a runway hazy with dry-ice smoke, Kanye West presented the highly anticipated second collection for his eponymous line. Jourdan Dunn, Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, and Abbey Lee Kershaw all walked the show, while guests included Anna Wintour, Sean Combs, Alicia Keys, Kim Kardashian, Guiseppe Zanotti, Azzedine Alaia, Andre Leon Talley, and Common.

The collection itself was darker and more focused than last season, with body-skimming silhouettes, black leather, sheer panels, and plenty of fur. Most of last season's fit issues seem to have been resolved.

As for the general response? Overall, it's much better this time around, though the reviews are almost as diverse as the front-row crowd. Some highlights below:

"Harder, better, faster, stronger." [High Snobeity]

"Harder, faster, stronger, maybe just a little bit better." [On The Runway]

"Like so much of West's music, this collection sampled material originally created by others: most notably Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci." [Telegraph UK]

"So Givenchy-esque that it's embarrassing that Givenchy designer Ricardo Tisci was an expected guest." [Wall Street Journal]

"A better sophomore effort. Clothes mostly fit! But must every garment be made from a pelt?" [Robin Givahn]

"A more thoughtful collection from a more humbled designer." [Styleite]

"There were only 20 looks, so no one can accuse him of not editing well." [Fashionista]

"Perfectly acceptable clothes." [Elle UK]

Paris Fashion Week

Alexander McQueen Fall 2012

>> For Fall 2012, all the gorgeous, classic McQueen-isms were in place — hoof-like shoes, nipped-waists coats, drama to the umpth degree — but this season, Sarah Burton injected much more of her own viewpoint into the mix.
Alexander McQueen Runway 2012 Fall

>> For Fall 2012, all the gorgeous, classic McQueen-isms were in place — hoof-like shoes, nipped-waists coats, drama to the umpth degree — but this season, Sarah Burton injected much more of her own viewpoint into the mix. It came in the form of lightness, volume, and shining optimism. Silhouettes were lush, round, and frothy, with mirror-like details and masses of floral appliqué. Dresses were done in blush-hued tiers of ruffles, coats were capped by whisper-light tufts of ivory fur, and skirts were covered in intricate doily laces. "It’s futurism with softness, not cold futurism," Burton explained.

With a collection as magical as this, Burton's future is so bright she might want to wear shades. Maybe that explains the giant, super-dark visors covering each model's face.

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang Reportedly Being Sued For $450 Million, Denies Claims (Update)

>> The Internet is ablaze with reports that a $50 million lawsuit has been filed against Alexander Wang for allegedly violating New York State labor laws.

>> The Internet is ablaze with reports that a $50 million lawsuit has been filed against Alexander Wang for allegedly violating New York State labor laws.

Both The New York Post and The New York Daily News report that Wenyu Lu, a former Wang employee, was forced to work 25 hours straight without a break.

However, the two papers' accounts of the situation diverge. The Post claims that a total of 30 workers have filed a suit against Wang in Queens Supreme Court, while the Daily reports that Lu's lawyer is still hoping to sign other Wang employees on to join Lu in a class-action suit.

Representatives for Alexander Wang have yet to comment, but they did tell the Post that they have not been served with a lawsuit. Several searches conducted by Fashionologie of the New York State Unified Court System failed to produce results indicating that a case involving Wang or Wenyu Lu has been filed.

>> (Update) WWD reports that a spokesperson for Wang has spoken out against the allegations: "The company takes its obligations to comply with the law very seriously, including the relevant wage and hour regulations, the payment of overtime to eligible employees and having a safe working environment for all of our employees. We will vehemently defend any allegations to the contrary."

WWD also confirms that Wang is being sued by approximately 30 of his former workers and that the actual total is $450 million — $50 million for each of the nine charges filed, which include "labor law violations, breach of agreement, and unjust enrichment." The case was filed last month in Queens County Supreme Court, but the fashion brand has yet to be served with legal papers.

Paris Fashion Week

Valentino Fall 2012

>> Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to "globetrotting" and the idea of "searching for one’s roots" for Fall 2012 Valentino.
Valentino Runway 2012 Fall

>> Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to "globetrotting" and the idea of "searching for one’s roots" for Fall 2012 Valentino. Sound a bit granola? It wasn't. The duo's great talent at Valentino is their ability to find the sweet spot between thematic and pretty — in a modern, on-brand way — and this season, that talent was on full display. Silhouettes were cut in easy, slightly girlie shapes — knee-grazing skirts, fitted bodices, wide culottes, puffed sleeves, and natural waists — but the fabrics were decidedly grown-up. There was crisp ivory organza, butterscotch wool, carpet-patterned tapestry, and — for a hint of edge — black leather.

Chanel

Chanel Fall 2012 — Plus, Accessories

>> For Fall 2012 Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld went glitter-studded, sparkle-emblazoned, and mineral-inspired — right down to the Lucite shoes and the crystal-adorned runway.
Chanel Fall 2012 Runway

>> For Fall 2012 Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld went glitter-studded, sparkle-emblazoned, and mineral-inspired — right down to the Lucite shoes and the crystal-adorned runway. But despite all the embellishment and shimmer, the selection felt focused and surprisingly downtown: oversize coats, patterned knits, and artfully-draped dresses were layered over ankle-cropped cigarette pants — which, incidentally, appeared on nearly every look.