Posts for September 12th 2012

Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane von Furstenberg on Yvan Mispelaere's Departure

Diane von Furstenberg made her first public comment about the departure of her creative director Yvan Mispelaere on the same day his exit was announced.

Diane von Furstenberg made her first public comment about the departure of her creative director Yvan Mispelaere on the same day his exit was announced.

"Yvan is a really talented designer," von Furstenberg said. "He joined DVF almost three years ago, and he helped me to brand it. He was very, very helpful. I think he had a good time. He saw a whole other way of seeing fashion and doing fashion, and then he felt like his mission was accomplished, so we parted."

Citing a press release from von Furstenberg's team, previous reports said Mispelaere would not be replaced, and that an in-house team would lead the design process. But the designer herself — who has counted Catherine Malandrino among her creative directors — seemed open to bringing another young designer into the fold.

"I think that he put together a really dynamic team," she said of Mispelaere. "There's a lot of talented designers, and I love the idea of having a laboratory."

Von Furstenberg was similarly vague about the implications of another staff change: the hiring of former Tommy Hilfiger executive Joel Horowitz as cochairman. Some have suggested Horowitz will help the company go public, but von Furstenberg wouldn't discuss specifics of his job.

"I realize that I have created a brand. And I look back and there's a big body of work and there's a huge recognition," she said. "I really have an asset — that's something that can go on after me. . . . It's a platform to build the next step."

fashion week

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013

About a week ago, when the Proenza Schouler Spring 2013 show invite arrived, we were struck by its odd, quasi-digital look.
Proenza Schouler Spring 2013 | Runway

About a week ago, when the Proenza Schouler Spring 2013 show invite arrived, we were struck by its odd, quasi-digital look. With its rounded font and high-contrast blue-on-white color scheme, it called to mind the kind of low-fi imagery one might see flashing across a late-night TV screen. You know, when there's nothing on but infomercials. Quite frankly, it seemed a little cold for a line that's always had one eye on artisanal craft.

On Wednesday evening, though, when the actual show finally rolled around, that strange invite imagery suddenly made sense. For this was a collection about the information age, and, more precisely, the constant influx of pixelated imagery that bombards us on a second-by-second basis.

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough called it "randomness," but there was nothing random going on here. Sure, there was a wild array of texture and pattern — colorblocked python skins, collaged photo prints, reflective leathers, perforated skins, primary colors — but it was all harnessed in by sharp, boxy silhouettes and carefully appointed lines. Skirts covered in graphic panels of texture were cut in precise A-line shapes, while chiffon dresses emblazoned in swirling prints were carefully fit to hug the body.

And as for the designers' signature use of traditional craft? Well, that was there too. It came in the form of geometric crochet, paneled patchwork, and gorgeous embellishment. The series of dresses that closed the show, with their perfect rows of grommets and studs that glistened like digitized sequins, were especially entrancing.

fashion week

Marchesa Spring 2013

Is there a richer source of inspiration than India?
Marchesa Spring 2013 | Runway

Is there a richer source of inspiration than India? For Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman, who infused the continent's rich silks and ornate embellishments into their colorful Spring 2013 collection for Marchesa, the answer is no.

Every dress that came down the runway featured some kind of decoration that pointed to the subcontinent: tunic and slim trousers cut from a pale gold brocade were embroidered and jeweled at their hems, and the silver cap-sleeved gown that Carolyn Murphy wore in the show was covered in lace. This was a literal interpretation of India, punched up with '60s shapes (cape sleeves, anyone?) and the energy of a glamorous Bollywood production.

fashion week

Reed Krakoff Spring 2013

Reed Krakoff's Spring 2013 collection was delicate in color, silhouette, and fabric.
Reed Krakoff Spring 2013 | Runway

Reed Krakoff's Spring 2013 collection was delicate in color, silhouette, and fabric. Neutral hues found themselves on everything from blazers to shorts to dresses to trousers. Loose-fitting clothes lent a relaxed vibe, while silky and sheer fabrics were super feminine. Hemlines were demure, with the exception of the shorts. There was a sporty air throughout the show thanks to elastic-waist pants and collarless jackets. Tuxedo pants screamed chic, collared blouses buttoned up all the way were strong, and lingerie-inspired styles provided a contrasting softness. The only pop of color on the catwalk was a few coral pieces and the only print was a snakeskin skirt.

fashion week

Holmes & Yang Spring 2013

If Katie Holmes and Jeanne Yang are intent on winning the affections of New York's hard-lined fashion types, than it's safe to say that they're off to pretty good start.
Holmes & Yang Spring 2013 | Runway

If Katie Holmes and Jeanne Yang are intent on winning the affections of New York's hard-lined fashion types, than it's safe to say that they're off to pretty good start. Their intimate Spring 2013 presentation — the duo's first official outing on the New York fashion calendar — certainly offered up plenty of chic, downtown-tinged options.

The focus here was on basics, but there was nothing boring about these clean-lined looks. One speckle-print shorts suit, for example, was the kind of thing that someone could easily make a statement in at night, but its individual pieces were relaxed enough that they could just as easily be paired with more casual pieces for day. Likewise, a sexy V-neck tank in slick black leather with skinny spaghetti straps looked right at home paired with an olive silk maxi skirt, while one strapless jumpsuit in breezy silk had black lace insets running down the leg for a hint of romantic appeal. If this is the kind of elevated versatility Holmes & Hang is capable of, then it will be fun to see what else the pair can do.

fashion week

Elizabeth and James Spring 2013

There was an exotic glimmer to the tailored separates and relaxed dresses that made up Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen's Elizabeth and James Spring 2013 collection.
Elizabeth and James Spring 2013 | Runway

There was an exotic glimmer to the tailored separates and relaxed dresses that made up Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen's Elizabeth and James Spring 2013 collection. The duo looked to images of sunsets and sunrises for inspiration this season, and the resulting palette lent a sense of serenity and richness that was as lovely as anything on offer elsewhere this week. Jackets and pants were the main draw here; they came in the form of slim-cut boy blazers, boxy sport coats, pared-down trenches, wide-leg cropped palazzos, and softly cuffed trousers. Crisp shantung silks and smooth damask printed in wallpaper patterns helped enhance the polished bazaar vibe.

fashion week

Rachel Zoe Spring 2013

Rachel Zoe's first full-on runway show brought out plenty of big names — Jessica Hart, Harley Viera Newton, and Joe Zee all sat front row — and also plenty of sartorial appeal.
Rachel Zoe Spring 2013 | Runway

Rachel Zoe's first full-on runway show brought out plenty of big names — Jessica Hart, Harley Viera Newton, and Joe Zee all sat front row — and also plenty of sartorial appeal. Citing '70s icons Jane Birkin and Talitha Getty as her inspiration, Zoe's signature pantsuits, maxi dreses, and jumpsuits came with a streamlined bohemian slant. "I just kind of wanted it to be an effortless cool, a tomboy chic, and have this casual sensibility, you know?" the designer said.

fashion week

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti Spring 2013

How do you borrow from the boys while still looking completely and unimpeachably feminine?
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti Spring 2013 | Runway

How do you borrow from the boys while still looking completely and unimpeachably feminine? If you're Alberta Ferretti, and you're designing the Spring 2013 collection for your secondary line Philosophy, you might consider using the silks traditionally reserved for making men's neckwear and using them to make striped pants, patterned skirts, and body-conscious dresses that no one could mistake for mere men's accessories. Even the blazers were rendered ladylike with the addition of contrast printed sleeves and hidden closures.

Ferretti's signature femininity was thrust into even sharper relief by her show's venue, the masculine wood-paneled Oak Room at The Plaza Hotel. Had the silks turned into ties, they might have felt right at home — but these girlie looks were so modern, bright, and inventive that they could go anywhere.

Topshop

Tophop's Spring 2013 Show Will Be Totally Customizable — By You

Talk about engaging: Topshop Unique has developed a way to let online viewers of its Spring 2013 show customize the looks coming down the runway.

Talk about engaging: Topshop Unique has developed a way to let online viewers of its Spring 2013 show customize the looks coming down the runway.

We'll be live streaming the show on Sept. 16, but viewers of the stream on Topshop.com will be able to change the colors of selected pieces of merchandise. They'll also be able to preorder their versions of those products and share their favorite moments with Facebook friends via a "shoot the show" button developed by the social media platform's engineers. "This show is all about the customer and creating what we call 'social entertainment' around our product," said Topshop's chief marketing officer Justin Cooke. "It's social, it's commerce and it's entertainment all rolled into one."

Topshop isn't the only brand that's making a heavy investment in social and digital media. Prabal Gurung's ICB, See by Chloé, and Pierre Balmain all staged online fashion shows this week. Nicole Miller became the first fashion designer to answer fan's questions through VYou, a video platform, just last month. Lacoste joined the small pantheon of fashion brands with over 10 million Facebook "likes" in August.

But none of those brands has engaged with its fans the way Topshop will this weekend. A preview of what's in store in the video below.