Rossella Jardini's Spring 2013 collection for Moschino was a graphically bold and wildly colorful love letter to the shapes and spirit of the '60s. The show opened with models wearing helmets, oversize glasses, and demure white gloves — Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis on a horse, anyone? — clad in black and white ensembles held shut with shiny round buttons. Then came trendy black and white stripes on everything from suits to miniskirts, and then colorful cocktail dresses, either in solid shades of pink and yellow or printed with Moschino's signature hearts and flowers. Things ended on a sweet note: fresh white eyelet dresses that were an effective palette cleanser after all the graphic edge that came before them.
Posts for September 21st 2012
"Minimal military chic" was the name of the game for Ennio Capasa earlier today at C'N'C Costume National. To that end, the designer offered up plenty of re-imagined utility gear in slouchy silhouettes and a palette of army green, black, and oyster. Epaulets, cargo pockets, and asymmetry — in the form of surplice wraps and draped panels — each featured heavily, as did sheer and shiny fabrics in the form of charmeuse, chiffon, and leather. It was a formula that, for the most part, worked well — especially in the form of a chiffon t-shirt with leather sleeves and a relaxed jumpsuit made up of a sheer bodice and pants with leather pockets at the knee.
So much for all designers getting along: Giorgio Armani has responded to a blog post Roberto Cavalli wrote this week in which he called Armani a "little king" who holds an unfair sway over Milan's fashion community.
"Cavalli should be quiet because the 'Little King' could start to get angry," was all an amused Armani had to say when asked about the other designer's rant.
The post, which appeared on Cavalli's blog on Sept. 11, was a little more verbose. In it, Cavalli complained that the Italian Chamber of Fashion bows its head to major design houses like Armani and Dolce & Gabbana when it schedules Milan Fashion Week and gives them preferential placement. Cavalli worries that journalists leaving Milan early for Paris Fashion Week, which starts on Sept. 25, will miss his show, scheduled for Sept. 24.
"As usual, the Camera Nazionale della Moda is washing its hands of the situation and it will not go against the wishes of 'Little King' Armani, and therefore the problems are mine alone," Cavalli wrote.
Roberto Cavalli has joined the small handful of designers who took his cues from the sea this season: his Spring 2013 collection for Just Cavalli was inspired by a large tank of tropical fish he keeps at home. Vibrant colors like bright yellow, green, and purple combined with deep-sea blue to form interesting prints, and sequins that looked like glittering scales were applied all over one sweater and as accents on shirts. A blue-and-white print that featured conch shells was a cool addition to the mix, and it shone when paired with leopard print on the runway. Leopards may not be creatures of the sea, but this is a Cavalli collection, after all.
Veronica Etro clearly had florals on her brain when designing for Spring 2013, but not in the way that one would expect. Bold and colorful Spanish flamenco-inspired florals were beautiful on pant suits, shirtdresses, pencil skirts, and elaborate flowy gowns. As the collection grew, so did the size and brightness of the flowers on the clothes. By the end, it was a mesmerizing garden scene. Likewise, sleek Japanese influences were felt throughout the show. Structured kimono jackets with cropped, cuffed, wide-leg trousers brought a modern twist to the traditional garb. Of course Etro's signature paisley print was also present, as were a few striped suits and dresses. There were a few solid pieces sprinkled in, but it was generally a mixed-prints party.