It's only her second season on the New York calendar, and already Tanya Taylor has generated quite a buzz. The Central Saint Martins and Parsons grad has been touted as "one to watch" by quite a few in the industry, and judging by the packed-in house at her Spring 2013 presentation, the praise has not gone unheard.
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The collection itself was inspired by the '60s-era Sandy Lane resort in Barbados, and — much like the iconic hotel — skewed toward smart leisure with a quirky midcentury sensibility. Double-breasted blazers (draped over the shoulders for a just-threw-it-on vibe) were cut wide and boxy, trousers came pressed and cropped, and slim pencil skirts hit just below the knee. Colors were bright and there were prints aplenty (a girlish floral print and ditsy dot pattern were especially lovely), but it was the use of high-contrast black on straps and waistbands that kept the pieces from feeling too sweet. Overall, it was a winning lineup — one that proved that some things really can live up to the hype.
Posts for September 5th 2012
Exclusive Sneak Peak: Lily Donaldson's Editorial in Dossier Journal
Lily Donaldson's editorial in the Fall 2012 issue of Dossier magazine is just as inspiring as the photograph of her that graces the cover. Shot by Skye Parrott and styled by Donaldson's best friend, Emilie Kareh, the images capture Donaldson inside and outside of her home wearing pieces from Viktor & Rolf, Thakoon, and Jil Sander. The issue, which will be on newsstands this week, also promises contributions from Yayoi Kusama (of the recent Louis Vuitton collaboration), Roman Coppola, and Marianne Faithfull, among others. For now, a look at Donaldson's full editorial here in the gallery.
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Photos courtesy of Dossier
Erin by Erin Fetherston Spring 2013
For Spring 2013, Erin Fetherston said she was inspired by a photograph of Brigitte Bardot lounging in canary yellow ostrich feathers. "I loved seeing her as a little French songbird — wild and sultry, with an air of unfussed glamour. I wanted to capture that spirit in my collection this season," she said. Accordingly, the designer tasked her models with playing ping-pong and languishing on patio furniture on a balcony at New York's Standard hotel and employed her own songbird — singer Alexandra McDermott — for entertainment. Many short dresses and full gowns faded from neon yellow or neon orange to white. One sweet sleeveless dress was kissed with a lipstick print, while other garments in blush tones and black-and-white were accented with ostrich feathers, paillettes, and a beaded zebra-print pattern. For an extra measure of "femininity with an edge," Fetherston ended the collection with several pieces in a cheetah print that incorporates the big cat's face.
Whit Spring 2013
It was all about the tropics at Whitney Pozgay's Spring 2013 presentation for her line WHiT. Indeed, the designer — and recent inductee into the CFDA incubator program — not only drew inspiration from a recent trip to St. Lucia, she also said that one of the collection's main themes was the idea of "decompressing." To that end, the silhouettes were just as throw-it-on easy as the brightly hued banana leaf prints were sweet. Adding to the vacation spirit were neon-accented straw bags, wide-brimmed hats, and printed canvas desert booties.
The New Online Arrivals We're Coveting This Week
With Labor Day long gone and New York Fashion Week beginning, there's no doubt that Fall is definitely under way. This week's just-in picks reflect that seasonal shift to a T: iridescent earrings in deep jewel tones, sharply tailored separates in wools and velvets, and more — this selection is sure to look chic right up until that last leaf hits.
— Robert Khederian
Rachel Comey Spring 2013
There was a lot to love at Rachel Comey's Spring 2013 show. No surprise there, as the designer has been cultivating — and winning at — her particular breed of laid-back cool for over a decade now. On offer this time around was plenty of that, and also plenty of something new: texture. It came in nearly every form, from slick and shiny (as on a rose-gold A-line mini) to light and wispy (on deconstructed peplum sheaths) to structured and nubby (on jigsaw-quilted shorts and dresses). Prints were plenty eye-catching, too — dappled sun prints, floral camouflage, and watercolor stripes — and they certainly played nicely with all that glorious texture.
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Since no Comey show would be complete without an array of want-now shoes, those bear mentioning, too. This season, the designer's signature wood-heeled clogs, lace-ups, and ankle-strap flats came accented with mirror-like metallics, perforated neutrals, and uberbright patent leather.
Organic by John Patrick Spring 2013
John Patrick layered together the many light-as-air pieces in Organic's Spring 2013 collection to create a series of natural and easy-to-wear looks. Soft-shouldered jackets, button-downs, and sleeveless tops drifted over short skirts or wide-legged trousers effortlessly. Part of the ease comes from a subdued color palette of white, black, cream, brown, and navy blue, but the rest owes to Patrick's soft tailoring and focus on the body. This collection's long, sheer t-shirts and skirts in navy linen strike that chord perfectly.
Christian Louboutin Wins Trademark Protection For Red Soles
Christian Louboutin received a reason to celebrate today when a New York federal court of appeals judge ruled that the red sole on his iconic shoes should be given trademark protection after all.
Now, except in the case of shoes that are red all over, Louboutin will be able to defend itself against shoemakers who copy its red soles. Armed with the new protection, Louboutin's lawyers will next square off against attorneys for Yves Saint Laurent. The parties have been engaged in a legal battle concerning a pair of red-soled YSL pumps for over a year.
Louboutin asked a New York court to prevent YSL from selling its own all-red, red-soled shoes last April. YSL pushed back in court papers, arguing that Louboutin's trademark on red soles, which it has held since 2008, should never have been granted in the first place. The judge agreed and asked Louboutin to prove it deserved the trademark.
Today's decision will undoubtedly vindicate Louboutin himself, whose lawyers have said he was ready to "fight like hell to the end." Late last month, the designer referred to the case as being "very much a double standard."
Photo via Christian Louboutin.
Rumor: Are Sales of Rachel Zoe's Clothing Line on the Decline? (Update)
Could rumors about declining sales of Rachel Zoe's clothing label be related to concerns about the future of her Bravo reality show? Some sources say the line isn't selling as well as expected — despite indications from her business partners that they're "very happy" with its performance.
The show was an important promotional tool for the clothing, but so far it hasn't been renewed for a fifth season, and uncertainty about its future has been in the air for months. Last December, Zoe's husband Rodger Berman told Fashionista it was "still unclear" whether the show would return for a fifth season. This February, Zoe — who had at that point started her own television production company — told WWD, "After four years, maybe there's something to be said for starting something new."
That may explain why unnamed sources told Page Six Monday that Li & Fung — the Chinese retailing firm that backs Zoe's collection — "is panicked" about the future of the line, and that consumer interest in her wares has hit its peak. Alan Chartash, Li & Fung's chief strategy officer in the United States, said that was not the case.
"We're very happy. Apparel launched a year or so, and since that time, we've launched footwear, handbags and we're launching a line of jewelry exclusively with Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman," Chartash said. "We're supportive of Rachel and the continuation of the brand. Like any clothing line, it ebbs and flows, but we're very happy with the apparel sales."
Representatives from Bloomingdale's and Saks Fifth Avenue, which also sell Zoe's clothing, had not responded to requests for comment as of this post.
Update: Bravo announced today that it has picked up The Rachel Zoe Project for a fifth season that will follow the stylist as she oversees her expanding business and family. Zoe herself said today during the Lucky Fabb conference that rumors of her business suffering are untrue. "My business is up significantly. Just launched jewelry, things are going well," she said. "None of those points from the NY Post article were true and it got picked up by everyone. Our retailers didn't even blink, though, because they know the truth."
Perfect Pairing: Lanvin Creates Macarons With Ladurée
Around the time editors and buyers alight on Paris Fashion Week, Lanvin will introduce a special box of bubblegum-flavored macarons at Ladurée.
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Alber Elbaz himself created doodles for the box the confections will be sold in, which captures the playfulness of women of all ages enjoying the sweets.
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Real women will have to wait until Sept. 25 to buy the multicolored confections in Paris. Ladurée's stores in New York, Great Britain, and Japan will start selling them on Sept. 28. The rest of the world will have to wait until Oct. 1 to savor the treats.
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For now, a look at the whimsical packaging here in the gallery.
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Photo courtesy of Ladurée.






